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by DebT on Thu Apr 16, 2009 3:50 pm
Hi, I have just purchased a set of micro positioning rails so had to try them out - the aim is to improve DOF when working really close 1:1 standard macro 5.6  Multi shot composite (helicon focus)  OK so now I'm sufficiently encouraged from this 1st attempt that I'm off to find a decent subject. Any quick hints on this technique always appreciated (as shot 5.6 40D 100m macro manfrotto rails 50c propped up on piece of cardboard in light tent natural window light ) DebT 100m Macro, canon ,
DebT "so many dreams - so little time "
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by Big V on Thu Apr 16, 2009 4:19 pm
Deb good result, the only thing is the subjects have to be still long enough - good hunting!!!!
Canon
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by Pa on Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:06 pm
A few pins will hold them steady
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by Murray Foote on Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:39 pm
Hi Deb
I've never used Helicon focus but I've done it manually using layers in Photoshop. Your method will work fine with a subject such as you illustrate because you have a continuous range of focus. I don't think any automated system can cope well with a discontinuous range of focus. For example, you might have a leaf in front of a flower and other leaves behind - and you want them all in focus. The problem here is where the flower is in focus the near leaf will be out of focus and the out of focus leaf will be larger than an in-focus leaf from an exposure when the flower is in focus.
In such a case there will always be an unfocussed area at the boundaries between the leaf and the flower. You then have to get into manual methods of adjustment (such as very careful and painstaking cloning) or simply avoid images with discontinuous focus. Mind you, if your only objective is to display for the web, the problem may be somewhat less acute because your image needs much less detail.
Regards, Murray
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by NeoTiger on Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:27 pm
Wow that looks really good, can't really tell there was any editing at all on the coin.... but the background on the edited one looks a bit odd, was the background really like that or are they artefacts from the software?
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by colin_12 on Fri Apr 17, 2009 4:25 pm
Nice Deb.
Neo, I think most of what you are seeing is the pattern in the cloth used.
Regards Colin Cameras, lenses and a lust for life
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by DebT on Fri Apr 17, 2009 7:50 pm
Hi, the background was a very creased piece of white ripstock nylon (a cheap light tent) but the software didn't handle it particularily well as it was much closedr to the first shot. I generally use nicer fabrics like velvet but this was a very quick attempt and I couldn't be bothered getting it out and ironing it . DebT
DebT "so many dreams - so little time "
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by Murray Foote on Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:34 pm
I don't think it's to do with ironing. While you can see the pattern in the cloth that is only revealed through an exposure more distant in focus than the top image, there are several horizontal bands behind the coin towards the bottom and the top that look very much like artifacts to me. I think it's probably because the software requires 8-bit Jpegs and while it's not that impressive for a continuous background (I'm talking about the software here), more exposures might help.
Regards, Murray
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