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1/2000 Flash Sync
Posted:
Fri Jan 28, 2005 9:19 pm
by yeocsa
Following on an article here to tape the contacts on the hot shoe, D70 users can get flash sync of even up to 1/8000.
It works. 1/2000 f8. Manual. 80-200 f2.8
how did you do it ...
Posted:
Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:13 pm
by christiand
Hi yeosca,
another great shot of yours.
I am extremely curious about these kind of shots.
I would really like to ask you about very detailed information regarding this photo and the also the portrait you've done.
See, I have a 70-200 VR and also an SB-800.
I always thought that I would need a macro to take a photo of that hover fly.
May I ask you for EXIF on the portrait and this hover fly shot ?
Best regards
Christian
Posted:
Fri Jan 28, 2005 10:22 pm
by sirhc55
Yes a great shot. Did you use the macro setting for this shot? I noticed that you used 100mm on the lens. What kind of view do you get in macro as I notice that the closest focussing distance in macro is 1.5m giving a ratio of 1:5.9?
Love the shot
Chris
Posted:
Sat Jan 29, 2005 2:48 pm
by Oneputt
A top shot - absolutely love it. Your EXIF info shows an apeture of f11 which would explain the fairly shallow DOF. Would love to see some more.
Posted:
Sat Jan 29, 2005 3:42 pm
by phillipb
Oneputt wrote:Your EXIF info shows an apeture of f11 which would explain the fairly shallow DOF
You're confusing me, f11 should not give you shallow DOF although in macro there's never much DOF.
I tend to regard anything below f5.6 as shallow DOF.
Posted:
Sat Jan 29, 2005 6:17 pm
by Onyx
1/2000th was insufficient to stop apparent motion of the bee's wings - wow, just imagine how hard they're flipping to keep themselves floating in the air!!
Top shot
BTW, yeocsa.
Hi
Posted:
Sat Jan 29, 2005 10:25 pm
by yeocsa
I am using Nikon 80-200 f2.8 Push Pull. When you add an extension tube (e.g. 12, 25 or 35), the magnification is increased but you get some light lost and you can get closer to the object (minimum focusing distance). At this stage, you get close to 1:1 magnification. The depth of field is extremely shallow even at f8. If I want the whole bee in sharp focus, I would need f22 or more.
Add a closeup filter (e.g. canon 500D), i get an additional 2.9x magnification.
Macro photography is very good in building your handholding techniques, focusing (usually use manual focus) and learn how to isolate your subject from the background.
Posted:
Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:59 pm
by mudder
Wow, good catch. That certainly would help develop your skills...
Really sharp, good nature shot... Like it.
Cheers,
Mudder
Posted:
Sun Jan 30, 2005 1:10 am
by genji
u have a lot of patience, i tried this using film once, and I didnt get any good shots.
so how long and how many shots before getting a keeper??
Thanks
Posted:
Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:23 pm
by yeocsa
Hi
That's the good thing about digital. Keep trying and you will get it. I started trial and error. About 30 shots before I find what works for me and what doesn't. The idea is to keep experimenting.
regards,
Arthur
Posted:
Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:57 pm
by MattC
Onyx wrote:1/2000th was insufficient to stop apparent motion of the bee's wings - wow, just imagine how hard they're flipping to keep themselves floating in the air!!
Top shot
BTW, yeocsa.
About the same as pushing a 747 through treacle. They are incredibly hard working little critters.
Cheers
Matt