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Hi all,

Firstly, these aren't my photos. These photos are from the guy on http://www.hioctane.com.au

The below photos were taken on a D70 with a 70-200mm VR lens, so not your average lens I've never been able to take this kinda photo with my kit lens, or the Tamron 70-300. Is it the lens that it making the photos so damn sharp and rich with colour? The brightness / contrast / sharpness etc etc is all absolutely awesome , and I wish I could do something like that now.... I'm just not sure whether it's settings, lens, or technique? I take all my photos in RAW and adjust in Capture, as does the guy that takes these photos.





Cheers,
Tommo.

Tommo,
What My thought is the 70-300 can produce some nice pics but not as the 70-200VR.
They're quite tack shap, the number 1 pic tells you all.
So save up your money and get that baby.

Hi Tommo
The first one really is quite sharp. I like the colours, but the background is a bit distracting.

He wouldn't make a living from going around taking photos at these events would he?

http://www.hioctane.com.au/purchase/

Pricing is as follows:
8”x12” - $25 (slightly larger than A4 size)
12”x18” - $50
16”x24” - $80
20”x30” - $110

Hi Tommo,
you don't really want to take photos of an old Mazda do you when your avatar is an Exige do you?

The good news for you is the shots were taken with a D70, though Birddy picked it correctly with a 70-200 or 80-200, not a 70-300. That doesnt mean you cant do it. The first shot was taken at 98mm at F5 1/100sec. The second two shots were also taken at F5 at 1/400 and 1/500 sec respectively, which means you can hand hold them. I would suggest a monopod if you are doing a bit with the 70-300 (I assume you have one by this thread) extended.

The first shot is taken late afternoon, you can tell by the golden light and shadows. So to replicate that shot, first find an old Mazda with a Kmac bar on the front, 30 profile tyres and ill fitting bonnet. Park in a spot where it will be evenly lit without shadows, but most importantly harsh highlights. Wait till late in the afternoon (just checked, these were taken at 5.28pm) and shoot plenty, it's digital!

A very useful tool when looking at a digital image is an exif viewer if the data is intact. That lets you know the shooting info of the photographer. I use two one from http://www.opanda.com and also viewexif. Both are good

Sorry, Thommo just read all the info above the photos rather than the heading and photos only. Everything still applies, just substitute Tamron 70-300 for Nikon 70-300. If you want to see how good that class of lens is just look at Killa's photos under white water rafting

The first shot has had a contrast mask applied to in Photoshop. The mask has been slightly overdone, giving it a a sort of "fake" look.

Glen wrote:So to replicate that shot, first find an old Mazda with a Kmac bar on the front, 30 profile tyres and ill fitting bonnet.

The bonnet fits fine - it is popped.

Kristine, and I thought popping was the noise those cars make when they go a bit overboard on the peripheral porting

Thanks for the advice guys - I kinda figured it was the high quality lens as well I should also try shooting in apature mode, I've noticed most people seem to shoot in this mode during the day, not sure why though??

Is a Tokina lens any good? I would like to pick up a cheap one before I go to NZ in March.

Birddog114: I dream of owning a 70-200VR, but at this point, I can't justify spending that kinda cash on a lens, haha.

Regards,
Tommo.

Tommo... whilst the 70-200VR is certainly a superior lens I think you should be able to acheive pretty similar results with your lens as long as the light is adequate. The high contrast 'pop' this guy is getting will be via post processing or perhaps high contrast settings in-camera. You can do that as well.

Michael.

Mj wrote:Tommo... whilst the 70-200VR is certainly a superior lens I think you should be able to acheive pretty similar results with your lens as long as the light is adequate. The high contrast 'pop' this guy is getting will be via post processing or perhaps high contrast settings in-camera. You can do that as well.

Michael.

Ahhh cool - i've just tried playing around with Contrast in Photoshop, and raising it to +15 yeilds some quite good results - thanks for the tip