Andy,
AndyL wrote:This shot was taken during the middle of a very bright day under the shade of a tree. Nowhere did I mention the use of "fill" flash. I have a fairly good grasp of what fill flash is and normally work on the principle of less is better. Unfortunately this was not a fill flash situation but a very high contrast scene and flash was used to reduce contrast to something that the sensor could handle.
Ok... so, please illuminate me.
What do you think the purpose of "fill" flash might be, if not to reduce the contrast between different elements within the proposed image?
It may be expressed in any number of ways, but at the end of the day, you have elements within the image that have vastly different lighting applied to them, and the idea is that by applying extra lighting to one or more of those elements, you are reducing that disparity and bringing the contrast range under control.
Let's now go back one step, to your lighting situation, about which you state:
"the middle of a very bright day under the shade of a tree.". You very clearly already had a very bright and prominent light source: the sun. Even in the shade of a tree, the sun is still your predominant light source, perhaps reduced by two stops.
I'm not sure that I accept the premise that you needed a different primary light source, which is what you're suggesting when you say that your lighting was not a "fill" light.
The sky (which should be blue, not white) would have been completely blown or she would have been so deep in shadows that the image would have been unusable without flash.
Almost correct. "without flash or a reflector" would probably be a more correct statement to make.
A reflector was unusable.
Unusable?
Impractical, perhaps. Difficult, more than likely. Maybe even not at hand. Unusable? No, not from what I'm seeing.
I readily accept that not all situations are ideal. That's a given. Adding a reflector to an image is often very difficult for any number of reasons, none of which I would state to be "unusable".
As it is the sky has been pulled back about 3 stops, which in hindsight (the source of much wisdom
) was 1 stop too much.
So, we're in agreement that shading of the tree was in the order of roughly about two stops.
The flash metering of +0.3 is to my knowledge entirely appropriate for the technique used in placing fair skin where it belongs in the histogram. I assume flash values "-0.7 through -1.3" are in terms of matrix metering, which from my image comments, was not what I was using.
Well, I'm not sure that I'm understanding you here. I suspect that you're confusing the required exposure adjustment when you're metering (reflected) from fair skin in spot metering
mode - about +1/3 of a stop is reasonable - whereas my quoted flash values have little to do with metering - matrix or otherwise - at all.
Now, you have, as you stated, started by metering for the background. You metered the sky, and you stated that this was +3 stops, and you also have now stated that you feel that +2 stops would have been a better value. I agree entirely.
The upshot of this is that you're starting from a baseline that is one stop overexposed.
But now you have added - not to your shadow reading, but to your +1 stop overexposure baseline - an extra 1/3 stop in your flash, which looks blown and harsh, and flat, and you seem to be accepting that this situation is the case in this image:
"I am aware of all of the faults with this image (hair, shadows, flattening due to use of light source etc)".
Clearly something is wrong with this image, but you are defending your technique as correct? I'm rather at a loss to understand how your correct technique could lead to these problems?
How does adding even more light to an already overexposed image (again, by your own statement that you started from a base that was one stop over) make an image less overexposed?
My belief is that by reducing the level of flash output, this would have been a much better image. You are free to accept or reject that advice as you see fit, but this is something that I've done once or twice, (or perhaps a few thousand) times before.
And in this realm, please don't overlook the fact that your image appears to be overexposed, blown and has harsh lighting and shadows - a fact which you readily accept. With respect to the power of the flash that you used, there are just three, and only three, basic choices that could be made: you could stick to the same power of the flash output that was used to make this image. That would, obviously, lead to a similar result to that which we're seeing.
You could increase the power of the flash that was used. If the current example is displaying too much flash power - which you agree is the case - what outcome would increasing the flash power produce?
Or you could decrease the power of the flash - my original suggestion. The one that, in defending your original technique as correct, you seem to be rejecting.
but have you ever tried pinning down a 9yo
I think there are laws the preclude this from being something I want to try.
...
As a final observation, your response to me has come across (to me) as you being very defensive of your technique and knowledge. Please understand that at no time am I trying to attack you; I'm simply and only trying to help you to improve your photographic skills, based upon my knowledge and skillset, and what i'm observing in the image presented. You are free to either accept or reject my advice, and please also remember exactly how much you are paying for any of the advice that you get here: it may well be valued at cost.