Thanks for the comments guys. The 3rd one is my favourite, but I have taken quite a few like it before. When I showed the 3rd to Alison, she rolled her eyes and said "Another duck". There's just no pleasing some people. I'll be printing this one big for my wall. I was planning on buying Fred Miranda's Stair Interpolation software so I could take it up to a 20" X 30". Has anyone used this software successfully to make large prints?
Surrenj, I don't know if it's common knowledge or not. No-one suggested it to me, I just started doing it to get over a problem (in my mind) with Photomatix. With Photomatix, I've found that reflections of the sky come out as light as the sky itself, whereas in real life the reflection is slightly darker. So I started masking in the reflections back from the original to get the darkening. Then one thing led to another and now I always end up tinkering with the HDR output using 1 or 2 of the originals. The HDR process gives you the dynamic range and the blending back in of parts of the originals gives you the realistic look that sometimes gets lost with the HDR process. After making the HDR, I open it and the just under exposed original, paste the HDR onto the original and play with the opacity until I like it - typically taking the HDR opacity down to 70% to 80%. Then tinker from there.
Another thing I've found is that you absolutely have to get rid of any chromatic aberation in the originals before you use the HDR software. I can just imagine Photomatix saying: "Oh there's a lovely blue stripe down the side of that mast and a lovely red one on the other side. I'd better make that stand out." And it does given half a chance. HDRs bring colour noise to the surface for the same reason. IMHO the best thing ever invented to help with HDRs was the D300 and D3 (in the Nikon world anyway) with their reduced colour noise and lack of CA. The 14-24 helps too.
Chers
John