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Shooting Rally CarsHi All,
Relative newbie to Rally's and definitely to trying to capture them photographically, so I'm looking for any tips, suggestions any little morsel of wisdom when it some to taking the shots and protecting the gear. From everything I've read dust could be a big issue, so I have the gitto ready for before and after the days shooting to try to keep the dust inside the camera down. I don't have UV filters for my 80-200 or my 10-20, so I'm a little reluctant to use them if I'm going to be close to flying rocks, I'm considering maybe sticking with the 70-300G (sacrifical lens) or possible the kit (at least it has some protection). But I guess some of this will depend on how close I can get to the track and the cars. (Don't really want to get so close I could get run over, so odds are the 10-20 might not be suitable ... unless the cars are stationary). I remember reading that someone had some form of container or bag they hide the camera in between shooting (to minimise dust) is it worth employing a similar strategy ? As I said any feedback, suggestions etc very welcome! Thanks, Craig
No need the UV for those lenses,
Bring those lenses out and put them in good use. Why should you worry about dust and other things. All can be cleaned & cleared by the end of the day and that also made you buy the gears for. Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
You have a good point Birdy, the gear is there to be used, just as a first time Rally goer, I really don't know what to expect, and well was a little concerned a rock flying through my 80-200 could cause a lot of pain and suffering for many people.
Anyway, other then being worried about dust and rocks... I didn't know if I should be trying to use the flash ? Or just try pretty fash shutter speeds.. I also contemplated shooting Jpeg to get more continous shooting, but I'd rather not sacrifice the flexibility of shooting RAW.
proabbly not a good idea to use flash these race car drivers may get distracted and crash, plus the flash wontreach that far
as for rocks why don't you just buy a raincoat make a hole in it and pop the lens through it. Purchasing a $30 cheapo lens protector isn't a big deal if it's going to save a lot of pain and suffering, hell craig if your around walsh bay today you can borrow one of my 77mm uv filters it already has scratches on it, stil renders out a good pic though
Using flash is also depending to the lighting and other factors not all will work with flash. I know you still can lust eventhough your sig says: banned. Get a D2hs or a D2x and enjoy If the d200 is existed atm, then go for it and save a fortune against the D2 series, then shoot with continuous mode or we called it as rapid-fire. Bring home a big smile on your face same as your lovely Katie. Last edited by birddog114 on Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
We here have just learned you've got another scratches UV filter how come? Most of my filters were purchased pre-2000 and none of them get scratched. And I do use them often. Stress-tested once again? Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
no just normal use
in egypt it got a few bumps and scratches just form the environment all my filters have scratches on them that's why i buy UV filters for protection
Well speaking from experience (Many years of going to ROC) I always use UV filters, primarily to protect the lens. Unfortnately I have found out the hard way before, managed to scratch a lens when i was cleaning it from dust. Luckily it wasn't a expensive lens, but I still would have prefered to have not scratched it
A big tip for you.. as soon as the car goes past, tuck the camera under your shirt.. Helps with the dust EDIT: one other thing, make sure you close up your camera bag, dust gets everywhere.. and I mean everywhere hehe Do you know what stages you are going to be at Craig? Wouldn't mind meeting up. Look for a D70 with a bright yellow neck strap Chris
Dust is a serious issue.
UV or skylight filter on every lens to protect the front element against dust. It's much easier to clean than an expensive, multi-coated lens. As Chris says, keep everything not in use well wrapped. And be prepared to give everything a good wipedown after the event. Unless it's approaching dusk or dark, forget about flash. You'll probably be too far away from the subject anyway. Prefocus on a point where you think you'll be shooting, if you wish, and follow the cars into and through that point and then beyond. You never know what might happen if a car gets thrown off-line. Be alert, not alarmed. And have fun. g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
Thanks for the information Chris. (I can't drive, so I'm basically just a passenger). I'll be attending with Willigan (Canberra Craig) and Andy a mate that has yet to sucumb to the DSLR bug, but he does have a decent P&S. We are planning on only attending the Saturday, but not sure which stages etc. When you go, how many shots do you usually take, any ideas ? I'll keep a look out for you on the day, I'll be the Nikon with the D70 logo on it, (if its cold the bright green jumper, if not a green polo shirt) hanging out with a Canon and a P&S user
Danger! Warning! Hyperbole Alert! Hyperbole Alert! g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
Hmm not sure how many shots I take, I usually just keep shooting and worry about it later Usually arm myself with a few cf's and my x-drive and worry about culling once I get home
I'll keep a eye out for you guys too Chris
Mineshaft is the first run of the day & the rest is at Kowen & the Service Park, so my schedule would be to get to Mineshaft & then head to Kowen for the rest of the day. Of course, I really should consult with Craig & Andy first Craig - Canon 350D, EF-S 18-55, EF 70-300
Good call, I deserved that. But seriously his P&S was one of the reasons I finally when for a DSLR, as it allowed for so much more flexbility then my own P&S at the time.
Sounds good Craig, your the local so I'm happy to go with your plan. Still nervous about my camera, but bloody excited!
Craig I attend the Rally of Qld every year, The lens which gets the most use is the 70-200 and then the kit lens. A wide angle only gets used around the pits. I never worry about dust and do not use UV filters (but that is just me), I do however clean the camera and lens frequently over the two days.
"The good thing about meditation is that it makes doing nothing respectable"
D3 - http://www.oneputtphotographics.com
There shouldn't be too much of an issue with flying rocks, but it's been pretty dry here for weeks, so the dust will be everywhere. Last year I stuck my camera (my old Finepix) under my shirt after the cars had gone past, but it still got a good layer of dust. Bring a plastic bag & you should be right. Craig - Canon 350D, EF-S 18-55, EF 70-300
Dust on lens? is that you're worrying about?
You have the Giotto Air Rocket don't you? Use it to blow hard on the front glass element of the lens few times prior to clean it, I see no harm with it and i did it often, if you have the filter on the lens, I imagine you have to do the same way. Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
Ok, for the dusty camera body:
Go to hardware store and get a small size of paint brush with soft hair, keep it handy in your bag, after shooting, run the brush over the camera & lens bodies few times, then Giotto Air Rocket and last thing is wipe the whole entirely bodies with a damp chamois, then it back to a fresh new looking camera body + lens. I often do the cleaning within couple days if I use the camera often. Members often asked me: why do I carry few paint brushes in my cleaning kit? Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
Thanh,
I don't know if you've ever been to a rally, but the dust at these events (and at Motokhanas and other dirt based motorsports events) is unlike the normal dust that one is likely to see. For real dust, try the Mini Club Nationals in Hay on the June long weekend. Even the dust needs to clean itself off after that event. While being paranoid about this isn't going to be of any help at all, the dust one may encounter can take some serious cleaning to remove completely (I'm pretty sure I still have some 80's dust on my FE2) and so a few preventative measures certainly won't go astray. g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
Yes, I have been into MOTOX few times at Morriset, Newcastle.
And I knew how the red dust there was but I used my method to maintain all my gears. It's tough but if you care for your gears then less hassle after. The other way is: ask Leigh about the protection which he did and posted here last few day with his new SB800. Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
That was drop-proofing the flash, not dust proofing it. g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
Thats exactly my plan. Watch the first 10-15 cars come over mineshaft then hightail it to the Service Park for the bus ride up to the Kowen stages
Thanks for the tip Birddy. I got dirt in my camera about a week after I got it & am still a little paranoid about it Craig - Canon 350D, EF-S 18-55, EF 70-300
Get a cheap UV filter, that will offer some form of protection to your lens. You don't want to waste your time trying to take images through a 2nd rate lens to get third rate pictures.
Use the 80-200mm for the cars going by, it's a sharp lens, and with good panning technique you'll get the images your after. Shutter speeds of around 1/300 (or less if your panning technique is good) will get you the blurred wheels and background. If light is good, don't have your aperture wide open, close it down a few stops to get the whole vehicle sharp (around 6.3 - 7.1). Obviously where ever the cars are going by at pace will get good action shots, but if you can try to find a tight corner where you can stand on the inside of it, then you can use a wide angle lens to get some good shots. Also try to find the end of each stage, the cars have to brake and stop to get times etc from officials. As the cars slow down, they are still throwing up considerable dust and rocks, but are much easier to photograph and still give a good illusion of speed. It's a nice easy area to get good images. Good luck and hope to see your images on Sunday night! 2x D700, 2x D2h, lenses, speedlights, studio, pelican cases, tripods, monopods, patridges, pear trees etc etc
http://www.awbphotos.com.au
Craig, never been to rallies before but from highlights I've watched on TV, the pro photos drape a towel over their camera body and lens (obviously not over the end of it ) and when the car goes past, quickly cover it up with the towel.
Hassy, Leica, Nikon, iPhone
Come follow the rabbit hole...
A large chamoi also works, also helps with any water...
2x D700, 2x D2h, lenses, speedlights, studio, pelican cases, tripods, monopods, patridges, pear trees etc etc
http://www.awbphotos.com.au
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