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Hello everyone
As a newbie to Digital and undergoing a steep learning curve, I am wondering if more experienced users of the D70's tinker with the Optimizing images menu to suit each particular situation/image or develop a favourite (perhaps a custom setting) and stick with that for most situations. I am shooting in JPEG and not doing much PP (soooo much to learn in that area!)...

Apologies in advance if this has been discussed somewhere else...

Thanks
Gecko

Well first things first: As someone who shot 10k frames in JPG: Don't waste your time. Change to RAW straight away and stick with it. You'll only get half the photos, but you'll more than double your rate of good and well made photos. RAW is not the holy grail - it won't create a good photo from a crap one, or save a photo with half of it blown out - but's bloody good for making those soso photos into great ones. With JPG I bascially had to discard anything not perfectly exposed.

Until you get into post processing properly, RAW can be just like JPG, except you just have to do a little conversion in between. I'd also say that PP on RAW is much easier than on JPG.

As for custom settings and so on: I left all that as defaults in the camera, so I'm no help there.

Again, I don’t use the in camera optimisation and always shoot RAW

Hi! Gecko,

When first using the D70 I tried optimising the pics via the options menu but found it to be distracting with the workload of composing the image, thinking about required aperture for result I wanted achieve, shutter speed etc while trying to get the right moment. Then I thought "why bother?" when all settings (in RAW) can be adjusted in Photoshop. However, one thing I learned was to increase the saturation on a bright sunny day when shooting outdoors. This seemed to result in the colours in clothing and skin tones being a little more natural looking (not so washed out). Especially when taking portraits outdoors etc. However, its all a matter of personal preference and taste, thats one of the great features of the D70, Creative Control.

I would suggest you experiment and take shots with various settings and see what results you achieve, also a great way to get to know the camera. If you dial in to much in a pic, try removing or toning down in Photoshop (or similar). e.g. at the moment I do not have any in camera sharpening dialed in prefering to do this later on desktop after all other editing is done. If you do not have a post editing program at least get (free) Nikon View.

My 2cents worth,

Andyt

Gecko

I'll just echo what's already been said. Switch from jpeg to RAW (unless you don't want to do any post processing).

Shooting in jpeg means the image has been optimised and lossily compressed = changes can't be undone.

Shooting in RAW means you have the (almost) original image that arrived at the camera's sensors. Changes you make in camera can be undone. So if you up exposure too high you can cancel it out fully or partially in post processing (PP). Want a sharper image, adjust curves etc then with the RAW image you can try this out non destructively

Gecko, one of the difficulties of those options is that their effect on the image are poorly documented - much like the digital vario-progams. Sharper or softer might be meaningful descriptors, but what's Direct Print for instance and is it a better choice for shooting a kid in the backyard than say portrait?!

If you enter one more level into the menu options' dungeon, you have the custom settings. Here you can change the image parameters like hue, saturation, color mode, sharpness, etc. basically these are the parameters that are changed in the options 1 level up (ie. Landscape, Portrait, Softer Sharper, etc) - and also most changes applicable to NEFs are these very options.

Jpeg is just as legitimate a file format to shoot in as NEF. IMHO it requires more skill to shoot in JPEG because you have to perfect a greater number of critical technical variables to compile a good shot out of camera.

I basically started out experimenting with the options, but then stuck with a basic set that I consider the best trade off or optimal for certain situations. Nowadays I'm set in my ways on only really change colour mode to suit the subject matter (colour mode I and moderate or normal saturation for nighttime, colour mode III and enhanced for daytime).

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

It looks like I should give RAW a go.
Please bear with me a bit longer....

To PP RAW images what do I need?

I have photoshop elements - but am a total newbie to this as well - will this do the job for me?

Do I need the Nikon View software (if so where do I get it)...
How much $$$ for the Nikon Capture software?

Many thanks
Gecko

gecko

NV can be DL from here

http://www.nikon-asia.com/

goto the "click here" link at bottom left of text (u made need to 'sign-in' with D70 serial number)

NC 4 is about AU$350 from vanbar, i think. although there is a link to free RAW convertor software on this forum.

cheers

Thanks for the advice
I downloaded Nikon View last night and shot my first RAW image.
I think this is the way forward for me....

Thanks
Gecko

Do not pay $350 for Nikon Capture.

A) It's not worth it.
B) I think it only cost like $100 from the US.

C) Download a trial and then do a search on these forums for 'paul'.

pippin88 wrote:Do not pay $350 for Nikon Capture.

A) It's not worth it.
B) I think it only cost like $100 from the US.

C) Download a trial and then do a search on these forums for 'paul'.

Search for "Allan"
Please note: to use this code, you have to install the NC 4.0 first and taking upgrade step by step. If you download the trial version NC 4.2xx, this code won't work.

Yeah, shit sorry.

I had a try of my paul search and obviously didn't get any hits. Thanks for fixing that birddy.

Gecko,

gecko wrote:Thanks for all the advice everyone.

It looks like I should give RAW a go.
Please bear with me a bit longer....

To PP RAW images what do I need?

I have photoshop elements - but am a total newbie to this as well - will this do the job for me?

Do I need the Nikon View software (if so where do I get it)...
How much $$$ for the Nikon Capture software?

Many thanks
Gecko

You may want to have a look at this free software: RawShooter essentials 2005:

http://www.pixmantec.com/products/rawsh ... tials.html

Bear with me as I ask some more newbie questions....

Am I correct in thinking that once you edit an image in Nikon View, you are limited to saving it as JPEG or TIFF?

If so, which is the better format?

Cheers
Gecko

gecko wrote:Bear with me as I ask some more newbie questions....

Am I correct in thinking that once you edit an image in Nikon View, you are limited to saving it as JPEG or TIFF?

If so, which is the better format?

What do you want to do with the image after saving it?

If you're finished editing (I never am) the saving as a jpg is fine. If you still need to edit it, then saving in jpg format is a big mistake, as you will lose information each and every time that you save an image as jpg.

NV is fine, as is the basic Nikon Editor that comes with it.

Getting back to couple of your earlier questions, shooting raw is definitely the most flexible way to go, as your image is saved, and any parameters that you have applied to the image (wb, ev compensation, etc) are saved, not as a part of the image, but as parameters, and thus they're able to be changed at a later time.

This is most important to remember, because if you're somewhat imperfect (like me) and occasionally forget to change your wb (or some other parameter) prior to starting a shoot, then you can easily correct that situation later on.

Just try that with a jpg, with as good and easy to obtain results!

On the issue of custom settings, you need to play with them a little; I've found a set that, for me, gives me images that I'm basically happy with directly from the camera, and thus I'm saved some element of (and time in) PP. DOn't forget that the custom settings include the ability to load and select a custom curve that you can apply to your images, and there are a great many curves out there that you can load and install (one at a time, unfortunately) and play with to see what you like.

One other application you may be interested in is Curve Surgery - it lets you slip a different custom curve in underneath your image. Remeber that we're not talking about the curves options in PS, but the underlying curve upon which your basic image has been created.

CS lets you plug and play with different curves on any image, and lets you see the results, on your pc, right away. Very useful.

Hi,

I agree with everyone else -go to RAW. Took me 1000 pics to covert to RAW from jpg...best move I ever made It can take a bit longer to get an image, but the results are so much more easily PP and you end up with more pics that you will be happy with.

If you have PSE-3 then you can download the Adode Camera RAW (ACR) plugin -its free and works very well (with my Pentax DS -eeek!).

RSE is pretty good too (and its free!), but I prefer ACR.

Dave

Good to see you've seen the light and shoot Raw. It also depends on what type of photography you've done, but like Pippin I wasted thousands on Jpeg and regret it. For one thing, editing in 12bit is far better than 8 bit, the gradation etc for darkening skies and reflections in water is far better as well. I would even go so far to say that JPEG's gradation isn't even print worthy. You also have a much better dynamic range with Raw. I couldn't believe some of the detail I was pulling out of skies that were completely white as a jpeg--with pretty good detail. I personally edit and save as a PSD (photoshop doc) and when I print or post on web I save as a jpeg (for web I save as lower quality). I support what is said before that it makes me more comfortable in shooting with certain auto settings (WB) as it usually gets the pic close enough that only minor changes are ever needed in PS (plus I convert to BW a lot now anyway). Hope this helps.

Thanks everyone for the info....

If you're finished editing (I never am) the saving as a jpg is fine. If you still need to edit it, then saving in jpg format is a big mistake, as you will lose information each and every time that you save an image as jpg.

I take if then that if I want to edit in the future, I should save the image as a TIFF file and forget JPG all together?

Gecko

gecko wrote:I take if then that if I want to edit in the future, I should save the image as a TIFF file and forget JPG all together?

Think of jpg as being suitable only for use as your end result output.

If you're wanting to save thumbnails, publish to the web, etc.

For publishing to the web, remember to bring your quality (and filesizes) down to something reasonable for others to download. Lower quality/smaller images also helps to protect your copyright.

gecko wrote:
I take if then that if I want to edit in the future, I should save the image as a TIFF file and forget JPG all together?

Gecko

Yep thats right.

1. Convert the RAW (RSE/ACR etc) -getting the white balance/exposure/contrast/saturation etc how you want it. I use PS:ACR as it gets the RAW file straight into PS -as aRGB colour space, 16 bit.
2. Edit the pic to your hearts content as a TIFF or PSD file -I use ACR and save the imported RAW file as a PSD and edit edit edit LOL. Make sure you use layers a lot and only work on duplicates of the original background layer (then you can easily get back to the original converted image as it was before your PS editing, without having to have multiple copies of the file.
3. When finished "flatten" the image, convert to 8 bit and sRGB colour space and "save as" a jpg for printing or web. You can make a neat action to do this with a single click in PS.
4. Keep the original edited PSD file -you never know when you might want to print that pic which you only thought was going to be on the web etc. and only made a small low quality jpg.

Hope this helps

Dave

Thanks for the info Dave

I think I need a crash course in TLA (three letter acronyms)!

RSE?
ACR?

I assume PS stands for Photoshop...

Can I do all of this with Photoshop Elements?
I'm on the steep learning curve here...

Cheers
Gecko

gecko wrote:Thanks for the info Dave

I think I need a crash course in TLA (three letter acronyms)!

As long as you have TLA down pat, ETWBOK. (That's a SLA, or two TLAs rolled into one. )



HTH, and TTFN.

Which reminds me, I was listening to the news on the radio the other evening, and I heard a footballer referred by name. It sounded like he might have been of Polynesian descent, with the name sounding like it might have been something along the lines of TaTa Foonau

Hehe... PS =photoshop

ACR = Adobe camera RAW; its the plugin for PS that allows PS to convert RAW images. You can get it from Adobe, the version you want is 2.4, and yes it works with PS Elements (PSE) but only v3 of PSE I think.

http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/ ... ftpID=2701

RSE = Raw Shooter Essentials; its a free RAW converter, with it you can get your NEF (Nikon RAW image files) into TIFF format, and then use PSE to edit etc.

http://www.pixmantec.com/products/rawsh ... tials.html

I think that a few people have had issues getting the ACR plugin to work because of that pesky Nikon RAW software..as a Pentax user thats never been a problem <grin>...do a search for RAW on these forums and I think you'll be set

Dave

Dave,

EnzyG wrote:I think that a few people have had issues getting the ACR plugin to work because of that pesky Nikon RAW software..as a Pentax user thats never been a problem <grin>

No, I suppose not.

But then again, I suppose that you have other issues to contend with.

gstark wrote:Which reminds me, I was listening to the news on the radio the other evening, and I heard a footballer referred by name. It sounded like he might have been of Polynesian descent, with the name sounding like it might have been something along the lines of TaTa Foonau

See-you-see-you?

Thanks everyone

A busy weekend of RAW photography coming up....

Cheers
Gecko

gstark wrote:Dave,

EnzyG wrote:I think that a few people have had issues getting the ACR plugin to work because of that pesky Nikon RAW software..as a Pentax user thats never been a problem <grin>

No, I suppose not.

But then again, I suppose that you have other issues to contend with.

 LOL...not many really Other than trying to get that Damn Nikon badge to say on the darn camera <chuckle>.

Oh well, I'm off to pick up my spanking new Sigma EF500 DG Super

Dave

Dave,

EnzyG wrote:

gstark wrote:Dave,

EnzyG wrote:I think that a few people have had issues getting the ACR plugin to work because of that pesky Nikon RAW software..as a Pentax user thats never been a problem <grin>

No, I suppose not.

But then again, I suppose that you have other issues to contend with.

 LOL...not many really Other than trying to get that Damn Nikon badge to say on the darn camera <chuckle>.

Oh well, I'm off to pick up my spanking new Sigma EF500 DG Super

Dave

Enjoy your new purchase of 'ELECTRONIC FLASH EF-500 DG SUPER':

http://www.sigma-photo.co.jp/english/fl ... _super.htm

Now you can join the Sigma Club .