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Maybe this sounds like a dumb question, a pix is taken, you see a preview on the LCD screen, when opened let say in camera raw PS CS2 the result is totally different, usually underexposed. My understanding is that previewing it would let you know if you need to shoot again, then why are they so different? Do I need to create a curve to fix this issue?
Is this normal? Perhaps I'm not making sense, but I'm new to photography and dslrs.

Personally I find the preview is only what it says - a preview. If you want a better idea of whether or not you have underexposed or overexposed the shot, turn on the histogram view as well.

Marcos, yep welcome to LCD screens and how light falling onto the screen affects how they look. I have this issue all the time, but find that now I just look at the screen and check for composition (not exposure). There are some 3rd party items you can purchase to reduce stray light falling onto the LCD screen. Nikon Boy has a link to these devices you can put over the screens that flip up and provide a side curtain.

What Chris said, the histogram is a valuable tool.

I use the dark-cloth that I use with a 4x5 camera as a shield from the light to view the LCD and the image takes on a totally different quality. The beauty of the dark cloth is that it remains constant in all conditions - it is always black!

I played with a mate's Olympus E-300 the other day and it REALLY needed the shade.

But, for best results, do as others have suggested and get to know the histograms and what they mean.

Remember that the pictorial aspects of photography are purely aesthetic and so are not quantifiable in any way; but the technical aspects of the medium can be quantified - and never with greater facility than with the histogram.




Cheers,

And don't forget that the level of brightness that you set for the LCD in order to see it - sometimes in very bright ambient light - can also affect how you think you're seeing the preview.

Use the preview to try to estimate focus accuracy plus composition only.

Use your histograms to determine correct (or otherwise) exposure.

PC CS2 - assuming you're using ACR 3.1, ignores incamera settings and sets auto corrections (brightness, contrast, etc) when you open a file. If you reset all the sliders to zero and see if it more closely matches what you previewed on the camera's LCD.

Good pick up Onyx, I totally missed the bit where he said he opened it directly in Photoshop CS2

What Onyx said, plus everyone else. LCD is next to useless for judging exposure (and critical focus for that matter, even zoomed right in).

I find the LCD to be the most accurate when in very slight shade, on -2 brightness. I also find it helps if you tilt the camera away from you so that you are looking at the LCD from slightly below straight on (does that makes sense?). A properly exposed pic actually almost looks overexposed and overbright on the LCD.

Even with all that, the LCD it still is brighter than the final pic on-screen and the blinkies/histogram are a better bet for judging exposure.

Also, you should at least calibrate your screen with Adobe Gamma (or Apple ColorSync util) as it might be that your display isnt set bright enough.

Thank you guys, you are so informative, as always.
I've noticed the difference between LCD and raw file on a specific shot, a few ducks on the water, the reflection of lights in the water makes the camera compensate, but after reading found that because ducks were darker than the water, I should have used spot metering at 6mm or so center weight instead of matrix, that way exposure is according to what the spot is reading as opposed to the whole frame on the viewfinder, that along exposure comp by increasing it 1/3 EV or 1/2 EV.
I know I'm new with this and what I'm trying to learn is to get good shots with little or no PP as much as possible.
This technical info is becoming a way of life for me now, and I'm loving it!
When I get a couple of shots worth posting, I will.

marcos, if you were shooting dark coloured ducks against bright water background - and using spot metering, you would want to dial DOWN exposure compensation, ie. (negative) -EV.
If you had stuck with matrix metering, then you would want to increase exposure comp, ie. +EV.

Both are equally valid ways (IMHO) of achieving the same result.

NB: the palm of your hands can be used as a rough guide for 'middle grey' when spot metering.

Common problem. You look at the LCD and think that you have a keeper, onlt to discard it later on when you open it in PS. With me it is generally a focus issue, as most other things can be corrected with PP.

Onyx wrote:NB: the palm of your hands can be used as a rough guide for 'middle grey' when spot metering.

Shit! My hands have just turned grey!




Seriously ...

Marcos, mastering exposure is lifelong pursuit, and a major part of getting images "right".

You're on the right track, and certainly, you're starting to recognise some of the issues and asking the right questions. I use spot metering for 95% of my exposures; it's a matter of knowing (learning) where to point your spot meter at in oder tio get it right, and for that, there's little that's better than just plain old experience.

Keep shooting.

Thank you gstark for your encouraging comments, and Onyx, I made notes on your answer, good advice