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Hi!

If I got it right, for film development I have to watch temperature very carefully as for printing. I've heard there are tanks with temperature management but I'm not sure what exactly to look for.

Suppose, this one is one of them - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... %3AIT&rd=1
Am I right? If I am, what I should check when I'm buying one?

Thank you

if you are processing B&W heat all containers and chemicals to the correct temputure and process, can be fun, if processing color, it will cost you more in chemicals than having the stock processed by a good pro lab, and less chance of a stuffup, as plus or minus 1 - 1 1/2 degrees is all you have to work with, outside of this and the color will be way off and unfixable, even with Photoshop.........

Maybe the english version should be read first

yes temperature is a factor in the developing process, so is time and chemicals used.

Your E Bay item is a small desktop jobo water bath film processor, these do work, can be very messy, temputure has to be spot on, chemicals have to be mixed correctly and at the correct temputure, which can vary from the processing temputure, you have to be very very careful of chemical cross contamination, but you will still need a dust free area to dry your processed film, and I mean dust free, as wet film is just a magnet for dust......

the processor can be cheap but the tanks and film processing reels can be expensive, unless you are shooting more than 10 rolls a day, it is cheaper to send the film to a lab, and more convenient........

I think that you have to go to this model to have temperature control?

with desktop processors, if the air temputure is greater than the processing temputure, it is impossible to control, as the water bath will heatup and you will have no control and say 3 days shooting goes into the bin, likewise if it is too cold.......

Thanks, everyone!

Yeah, now I understand why people are switching to digital. Bringing films to the lab is annoying sometimes but process films at home is pain in the neck.

I have to buy my own lab machine perhaps

Mikhail,

What you saw on Ebay is the lowest model Jobo processor in their range. It would work but you could do much better price-wise.

How much 120 do you intend to process is the first consideration? Next is, what sort of film?

For low-volume 120 B&W processing with normal emulsion films (not T-Grain) there is little to beat a hand tank and spiral. During processing the tank can be stood in a sink filled with water to an appropriate volume and temperature - a water jacket, in effect. And that is essentially what the Jobo is: a water jacket with a means of continuos agitation.

Now a lot of people do not like to process with continuous agitation - especially in small formats like 35mm and 120. Intermittant agitation (3 tip-overs every 30 or 60 seconds) is the preferred technique for many because it is gentler with the contrast and has what is known as a slightly 'compensating' effect. With certain developers it allows the build-up of increased edge sharpness.

I have a large Jobo which I bought last year to replace my previous old one which gave up the ghost. When sold new in 1998 my new Jobo cost $14,000.00. I bought it last year for just $450.00. There are bargains to be had as commercial studios get rid of this stuff. On a different point there is a Leitz Focomat IIc enlarger with two lenses going for less than a grand that initially cost $12,000.00.

Something urgent has cropped up I shall get back to you by PM.

Developing black and white does not have to be as stressful as some people would consider. It is important to get the temperature right to within a degree however it is perhaps more critical that you get the agitation process and time factor correct.

My advice ... hand develop in a small tank. Once you have the developer at temperature and determined the correct time for the film type and ISO rating then pour the developer into the tank, give it one minutes slow continous agitation (I usually rotate the tank head over heel), wait a minute and then give it 10 seconds of agitition every minute after that.

At the end of the time, drain the developer and then flush the tank with either Stop solution or, my preference, clean water at the same temperature for about half a minute. Drain.

Next pour in the fix... the temperature here does not have to be critical, so long as it is within a few degrees you'll be ok. At the end of fixing pour the fix back into a container and then give the film an initial wash (rinse with water about three or four times). Remove the film and check that all the fog base and colour has disappeared from the film... if not, continue fixing, if it looks clean then carry on with washing the film. Dry carefully (keep away from dust).

Hope this is a help.... lost count od the number of films I have processed (it'll be in the thousands) however the above technique has served me well.

Thanks again!

I'm shooting colour negative 120 or 135 films - that's why everything getting complicated. I might shoot slide film in the future when I get very familiar with the Hassy ans, correct me if I'm wrong, slide film developing is even more complicated and sensetive to temperature and chemicals.

While I'm happy enough with my scanner (Epson 4990) I'm quite unhappy to go every time to the lab and wait for couple of days for the film. So, I thought that average (or even low-end) desk system like Jobo would be fine for my home amateurish needs

Mikhail,

Now that you mention that it is colour neg film that you wish to process then, yes, the Jobo is the best of all possible solutions for you. One-shot processing, timed consistency and stable agitation and temperature control.

I shall PM you with details of who to speak to for a bargain. PS: Sorry about having to leave off in mid-thought yesterday. I received a distressed call from the wife of a dear friend saying that he had died. I am sure you understand my priorities.

Cheers,