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Got my hands on a borrowed SC-29 here.

Ok, I'd put the flash on top, and connect it to my camera, bingo... it works in full TTL mode and has the extra AF-ILL light, brilliant.

What now, apart from putting in the TTL mode and firing it off with my left hand holding the flash, I have not really much idea how to get the full use of it.

Current setting I'm using is about -1.3 ~ -1.7 FV set on the flash, then at about 1/80@f/4 on lens, ISO400. Results are acceptable, but not really top notch.

What settings on camera/lens should I use with this? Will be using a fast primes mostly for this setup, sometimes with the 18-70.
Location wise, dim indoor with medium height ceiling (maybe white/yellowish). And outdoor with sunlight/shade as well.

Should I leave the flash head pointing forward (so flash reads distance information) or tip it upright so it is easier to point anywhere? Where should I bounce (or not)?

Hi YiP,
Are the settings you list for a "studio-type" setup, or just for general shooting ?

Indoors, I'm assuming the flash is the main light source, so pointing it straight at the subject is likely to give dramatic shadows (which may be what you are after, given the artistic interpretation you might be trying to capture). Pointing it at the ceiling/wall etc is likely to give you more even lighting and the shadows won't be as harsh...but you'll of course need to compensate by upping the flash level to cater for the extra distance the light needs to travel - or "light fall-off".

Outdoors, you'll be wanting more of a fill-flash arrangement and for this, By using the camera (and it's settings) to expose for the background whilst playing with the FEV to expose for the subject (or to fill-flash), you can control how the light is captured in both foreground & background. I've been playing around with the flash in manual mode and it's pretty easy to use...it's just trial & error (lucky it's free)

Which settings to use ??? ....that will depend on the available light and the "flash to subject" distance. In a studio environment, this can be setup and should remain fairly constant. Outdoors, this will vary.

Just stick it on TTL and dial the power down if it's too bright or hold the flash away a bit further from the subject. There is no fixed formula for this, unless you want to give manual power a go.

Also I noticed going from the D70 to the D2, TTL flash with the D2 is a lot more accurate than the D70. With the D70, I kept getting overexposed shots regardless of what I did, so usually I dialed the power down two to three stops on the flash.

One of the joys of the SC-29 and the Nikon TTL system (or whatever it is called) is that you can point the flash anywhere you like. With my SC-29, I used the SB800 as an umbrella flash - with the flash obviously pointing straight into the umbrella.

I guess you have already found strobist (http://strobist.blogspot.com/)

He also suggest bunging the flash on the end of a monopod and using the TTL cord for some nice "way off camera" lighting.

is AF-assist worth the extra bucks over the SC-28?

Aussie Dave wrote:Are the settings you list for a "studio-type" setup, or just for general shooting ?

Indoor shots are mainly "event-type", so it is not the planned shot type where things can remain untouched.

Outdoor wise, will mostly be portraits, so time and planning can be included.

Pointing it at the ceiling/wall etc is likely to give you more even lighting and the shadows won't be as harsh...but you'll of course need to compensate by upping the flash level to cater for the extra distance the light needs to travel - or "light fall-off".

I think this is most desireable for an event shoot with a large/small groups.
Should I point the flash head up and raise my hand so that the flash is closer to the ceiling? So the light does not have to travel that much distance before hitting and bouncing back from the ceiling.
I find adding the diffuser on bounce reduce plenty of flash power/distance when using wide angles with larger area (have yet to try to real group of people). So I remove the diffuser if not planning to shoot straight flash.

Outdoors, ..........

I think I should set the flash into TTL-BL at 0.0EV, and let the flash do the magic calculations. Am I right??

Which settings to use ??? ....that will depend on the available light and the "flash to subject" distance.

I think I will not have much problem getting setting for outdoor scenes... I'm more concerned about indoor/dark areas which the flash will be the main light source, but still have to care about surrounding and background light, as I dont want to end up with underexposed or blurred out pictures.

I find using 1/15~1/30 shutter at ISO400 or even ISO800 (if needed) and dail down the flash by -2EV can give wonderful natural + flash balance. But, the problem is, holding the camera at 1/15th with BOTH hands is reasonable, but with just one hand... I shake a lot, there comes in the blurred shot.

You can hold the flash closer to the ceiling to maximise the power output of the flash, however utilising the onboard AF assist may prove tricky in this situation.

The diffuser will cut down some of the power so that is another thing to consider. Quite a few people here use the Lightsphere, which is basically a really big diffuser...and from all reports it seems to do a great job. A search should bring up plenty of threads.

TTL-BL should work OK outdoors, however I'm not sure how accurate it would be and depending on how "in-depth" you want to get in terms of controlling the light, going manual may or may not be a better idea. I guess it comes down to what you are trying to accomplish and if the "smarts" of the camera & speedlight will give you what you want. In many cases, they probably will. For the times that they won't, being able to shift everything into manual would be quite beneficial.

If you prefer the 1/15 at ISO400-800, but cannot handhold with one hand, look at getting a cheap tripod and stick the flash on it. This will free up both hands and should help you out with the slower shutter speeds.

The strobist link is a GREAT read. Can get very confusing and in-depth, but will certainly be helpful.

Greg B wrote:One of the joys of the SC-29 and the Nikon TTL system (or whatever it is called) is that you can point the flash anywhere you like. With my SC-29, I used the SB800 as an umbrella flash - with the flash obviously pointing straight into the umbrella.

Got any photos of your setup Greg? Be very keen to see it.

hash77 wrote:I guess you have already found strobist (http://strobist.blogspot.com/)

He also suggest bunging the flash on the end of a monopod and using the TTL cord for some nice "way off camera" lighting.

is AF-assist worth the extra bucks over the SC-28?

I use this technique in nightclubs and events and I have to say it's by far my fav way to get a more natural looking light source working using speedlight.

Also the extra $$ for the SC-29 is well spent. In low light conditions you want that AF assist pointing at your subject, not at the wall or ceiling or floor to the side of the subject, or worse, making your camera focus on the high contrast IR lines on a wall behind your subject.

a few examples of shots where without the SC29 I'd NEVER have been able to take the shots as is -

yo

buyig a sc-29 allows for freestyle flash acrobatics its freedom at its best

usually with a d2x ttl mode on flash has a rapport with metering on the camera, it adjusts optimal flash output from whatever exposure settings the camera is set on.
For us d2x users its easy flash on ttl and do whatever you want bounce of ceiling 11 ;0 clock lighting direct, bounce off floor bounce off white piece of cardboard, grey piece or somebody and you'll find exposure is sweet
like this.


I have heard from some d200 users ttl acts better

but for you d70 users well ttl doesnt work properly got no idea why but when i was telling wayne about ttl on the d2x and how easy it is he couldnt get the same results with his d70 and flash on ttl mimicing my exact settings

you will have to tweak the ev comp on your flash for desired flash output
or just by trial and error move flash further or closer to subject for desired result or change aperture shutter settings accordingly

I suggest throw the math away it jst gets in the way the flash is just a light treat it as such

wendellt wrote:...but for you d70 users well ttl doesnt work properly got no idea why but when i was telling wayne about ttl on the d2x and how easy it is he couldnt get the same results with his d70 and flash on ttl mimicing my exact settings

I'd have to say I never had any problems with TTL on the D70, including running it remotely (not using the cord though), so don't understand the problem you refer to Wendell.

It does work a treat on the D200 though

wendellt wrote:I suggest throw the math away it jst gets in the way the flash is just a light treat it as such

Agree totally, although as hard as the manual is to understand, it doesn't hurt to have an understanding of how the flash is supposed to work

Best advice is to go out and try a whole heap of different settings and determine which works best for your style of photography and the particular situation you are in at the time. No one setting will work for all occassions. Sometimes you'll want full control (choose MANUAL) and other times you will want to take advantage of the great features you paid a heap of money for

wendellt wrote:yo

buyig a sc-29 allows for freestyle flash acrobatics its freedom at its best

usually with a d2x ttl mode on flash has a rapport with metering on the camera, it adjusts optimal flash output from whatever exposure settings the camera is set on.
For us d2x users its easy flash on ttl and do whatever you want bounce of ceiling 11 ;0 clock lighting direct, bounce off floor bounce off white piece of cardboard, grey piece or somebody and you'll find exposure is sweet

but for you d70 users well ttl doesnt work properly got no idea why but when i was telling wayne about ttl on the d2x and how easy it is he couldnt get the same results with his d70 and flash on ttl mimicing my exact settings

you will have to tweak the ev comp on your flash for desired flash output
or just by trial and error move flash further or closer to subject for desired result or change aperture shutter settings accordingly

I usually shoot with the TTL -.5 to -1.5 ev and have no hassles shooting the SB600 on the D70 via an SC-29. More often than not it's either spot on with those settings. If not it's usually the nightclub strobes are throwing my exposures off.