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Conversion to SepiaA request was made in this thread here: http://www.dslrusers.com/viewtopic.php?p=216444#216444
that I might explain how I got the end result. Well I'm by no means an experienced user and there could well be easier ways to achieve the same result. I've put together a bit of an explanation and some screen caps. I apologise that the screen dumps are only of the palettes and toolboxes rather than the actual image, I thought it would be good to do that so people could do it to their own images as they go. easy to learn that way I reckon. Also I apologise for the very brief nature of the document and for doing a quick html thingo in Word (who knows what a .emz file is?), it looks really dodgy. Here is the link
Thanks for sharing your expertise Owen.
I learned another way to creat a sepia image at one of the PS forums at PIW. Click layer > new adjustment layer > hue/saturation > click ok > click on the colorize checkbox > slide the hue button up to around 30 > adjust saturation slider to taste. Doesn't take as long to do as it takes to type out the steps. Andrew
Like everything in Photoshop, there are a hundred different ways to do the same thing with varying results.
For a dead simple sepia, desaturate the colour image (Ctrl/Cmd{Apple}+Shift+U or choose Image, Adjustments, Desaturate. At this point adjust levels/curves as you choose to get a good tone density. Choose Colour Balance Ctrl/Cmd+B and add some yellow and red to taste. i.e. move the top slider to the right until the left hand number reads about say, 18 - 20 and then the lower slider to the left (Yellow) until you have a number in the right window around -45 or -50. Depending on the calibration of your monitor/printing choice, you should be able to find a happy combination there. When you do, create an action to automate it and then simply press a button to do it next time.
I found that if the image is lacking in contrast, then use the channel mixer with the greyscale box clicked, tool with the sliders till you find a contrasty mix that so long as it = 100% between the three sliders is up to you, then flatten, then convert to greyscale, then convert to duotone and I usually make that quadtone now with a range of different kinds of sepia strengths across the tonal range. Many steps but the control over the image that way is great.
Mark Greenmantle
http://www.elffinarts.com / mark at elffinarts dot com D70, 50mm/F1.8, kit lens, 80-200mm/F2.8, 35-70mm/f2.8, two 160w/sec slave strobes, sb600, "taller than me" astronomical tripod "can I have that step ladder please"
A true sepia tone does not affect the image equally....it works more aggresively in the midtones and light areas. There is an instruction on this forum as to a technique that will mimick a true sepia. Try a search if you are interested.
Regards
Matt. K
Cheers ....bp....
Difference between a good street photographer and a great street photographer.... Removing objects that do not belong... happy for the comments, but .....Please DO NOT edit my image..... http://bigpix.smugmug.com Forever changing
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