Shooting Picture Frames with Glass

[matt-chops]

Hi guys,

I've been given the task of shooting product for a framing business for use on their website (which I'm designing) and potentially in printed advertising too.

I'm trying to work out the best approach to do the shoot so that I am able to avoid having reflections on the glass of the various framed artwork and memorabilia I need to shoot. The shoot needs to happen indoors, in the store, which is lit with fluro lights.

What is my best approach? At my disposal I have a 5DmkII, 2 x 580EXII speedlights, 2 tripods, a large round diffuser and a CirPL.

Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

[DebT]

Have you thought of using non reflective glass ?
DebT

[sirhc55]

Find a wall location that is not influenced by any major reflection. View the scene through your camera using the CPL to find the optimum non-reflective position. See how it goes without flash. I have had great success in using a PC lens in the past.

The final solution is patience coupled with experimental shots.

[gstark]

A PC lens is a great idea.

Also, consider using some black cloth to act as both a subtractor as well as to intercept any reflections from outside sources.

[Mr Darcy]

Another option is to use the two flashes to overpower ambient.
Set these at 45 degrees to the picture with the camera front on.
The direct reflection from the strobes will miss the camera lens, while the light scattered from the picture will find it.
This is the general idea:

[Matt. K]

Here's a simple approach that often works....firstly, you need to turn off the overhead lighting because it will be reflected in the glass. Anything bright such as open windows or other lights may reflect. If you can't turn off these other lights then you'll need some black velvet to hang up between your camera and your subject to block them. Or do this at night in a dark room. Next...place camera on tripod with flash mounted on camera. (Yes...that's right folks!). Put a diffuser on the flash and bounce it off the ceiling just above the frame. When you get the flash angle right then there will be no hotspots on the glass. I've used this quick method a number of times and it worked for me. Otherwise, Mr Darcys method is a professional technique but you still may need to hang black material between the camera and the subject...with the lens poking though a hole. Let us know how you solved the problem .....!

[rflower]

do you need any flash at all?

setup camera on tripod
I do not imagine that the frames are moving too fast ... so adjust to a slow shutter speed (maybe 1/2 - 1 sec ?? )
adjust WB to suit conditions

the CPL would probably be ideal in cutting the reflections from the shop as well ...

[ljxphotography]

I work in art department on film sets a lot and all we do is remove the glass, this is the way i would do it.
All these solutions are attempts to solve a problem, remove the glass and there is no problem.


Mick

[Mr Darcy]

do you need any flash at all?

setup camera on tripod
I do not imagine that the frames are moving too fast ... so adjust to a slow shutter speed (maybe 1/2 - 1 sec ?? )
adjust WB to suit conditions

the CPL would probably be ideal in cutting the reflections from the shop as well ...

CPL only cut reflections that are polarised & only if they are polarised at the right angle. If you shoot straight on, you WILL get reflections no matter what you do. If you use ambient light for exposure, you will need to deal with ALL the reflections somehow. My method above means that the reflections will not be picked up by the camera, though as MattK pointed out, you may still need to prevent reflections from straight on. Either prevent the flash lighting the camera, or use Matt's black cloth. You can also fire the flash on Camera, but in that case you need to polarise the light (Put a pol on the flash AND cross polarise the lens in order to remove the flare. This is purely a technique of last resort though.) I have never tried it with a CPL though. Not sure how it will work in the modern world (It works a treat with the old linear polarisers, but they don't work with digital cameras)

Late entry: Mick you will still get an issue with shiny objects, but it is certainly a technique with merit as long as you can remove the glass - not always OK. I have photographed artwork in museums. THey definitely frown on tampering with the artwork in any way. BTW I will have to give your method a try Matt.

[Matt. K]

Glass removal is great providing it's easy to do and the picture is not extremely valuable. Circular polariser will only work at an angle and that's something you don't really want to do when copying artwork or documents. The camera needs to be squared up to the subject. It is possible to place polarising material over the lights and this is sometimes done by professionals but I guess that's not going to be practical in this case.

[ljxphotography]

Only if glass removal is possible

Mick