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After seeing some shots taken with a CPL, thanks darb. I did some research and:
1. I want one
2. Looking at B+W or Hoya. They seem to be the 2 best rated is B&W worth the extra $
I don't want to put an other piece of glass between the subject and the body that will downgrade the picture But I also have better use of about $ 20 US, a nice bottle of 12 year old scotch comes to mind
3. What level do I need some reviews stated at least HMC other S-HMC
D. Both offer a version that is a combination Polarizer and Wamer. Does the warming aspect help or does it limit in some way the polarizing effect If not that big a deal I could be looking at single malt not just 12 years
E. Only need the slim version if I want to shoot wide angle and avoid possibe vignette issue
Could be looking at Glenfedish

Swiched for number to letters so as not to appaer to be a totally anal retentive engineer. But alas if bullits where available I would have used them then I might as well tack a post-it to my farhead

Thanks
Rich

goodrich62 wrote:After seeing some shots taken with a CPL, thanks darb. I did some research and:
1. I want one
2. Looking at B+W or Hoya. They seem to be the 2 best rated is B&W worth the extra $
I don't want to put an other piece of glass between the subject and the body that will downgrade the picture But I also have better use of about $ 20 US, a nice bottle of 12 year old scotch comes to mind
3. What level do I need some reviews stated at least HMC other S-HMC
D. Both offer a version that is a combination Polarizer and Wamer. Does the warming aspect help or does it limit in some way the polarizing effect If not that big a deal I could be looking at single malt not just 12 years
E. Only need the slim version if I want to shoot wide angle and avoid possibe vignette issue
Could be looking at Glenfedish

Swiched for number to letters so as not to appaer to be a totally anal retentive engineer. But alas if bullits where available I would have used them then I might as well tack a post-it to my farhead

Thanks
Rich

Hi Goodrich62,
- Go for the Hoya HMC or Hoya Both side coated, B&W is a top grade filter but again it ain't cheap.
- Go for the single polarizer instead of both CPL and warmer, sometimes you don't need and again it ain't cheap, same as HMC and Super Pro HMC and thin 3mm. You can feeling difference in between them once you put them on both hands
- Go for the slim but has both side with thread otherwise you can't use your lens cap and depend to what WA lens you are using, I have and use both 3mm and 5mm filters from Hoya and B&W, it's only affect in real WIDE on the 12-24 or 10.5 Fisheye, and never stack CPL with UV if you don't want any vignette issue.

Yeah, I still don't know how darb gets his skys to go from almost black to a blue with his CPL. Be interesting to know which CPL he uses (think he said Hoya) and exactly what type of CPL. I know I've sat outside on a perfectly blue sky day and played with my CPL and yes it does give it a nice blue sky effect but nothing as severe as darb. Maybe it's the time of day he shoots I don't know.

Ideally, a CPL's effect is maximised when shooting perpendicular to the sun's light rays (ie. with your own shadow cast on either your left or right side). The need for good anti-glare coatings is VERY high. The rotation of the filter to finetune the effect is hindered by the use of a normal lens hood - so once again it reinforces the need for good coatings. (nothing stopping you from using your lens hood, indeed it will greatly cut down on potential flare and improve image contrast greatly - but have fun trying to adjust your CPL!)

The need for thin or make do with normal (thick) filters largely depends on how wide the lens you intend to shoot with; as mentioned by Birddog. On the 18-70DX kit lens, the lens vignettes at 18mm even without a filter present, so I would think it's unnecessary extra expense getting a thin one.

The warming effect is largely countered in Digitals by auto white balance. In fact, you could simulate the effect by playing with WB settings or in photoshop post process. Probably not worth the extra expense IMHO.

kipper wrote:Yeah, I still don't know how darb gets his skys to go from almost black to a blue with his CPL.

He's also using a graduated ND filter. That's what's giving him the effect that you're seeing.

Yeah, I was starting to suspect that but when ever I asked him he said he was just using CPL.