Ajax,
I agree with Mudder. There is nothing like playing in M
mode to find out how things really work.
One of the things that I have noticed in the forums is that many people are intimidated by a SLR camera. After using a CP5700 for 18 months, I found that the d70 is, in fact, much easier to use. All of the camera controls are much easier to find and manipulate, so shooting A or M is very easy. Some people are particularly intimidated by M
mode. This
mode is not as manual as the name suggests - the camera will guide the user via the meter in the display. Learning to shoot M
mode and using FV lock and EL, will definitely give you a big leg up when, for example, you start shooting heavily backlit scenes with flash.
As to your question concerning software. NC is decent enough software, even if it is only for its ability to upload camera curves - although it is very expensive if this is all that it is wanted for. NC's strength is in its ability to handle RAW exposure adjustments.
PSE and
PSCS can handle this through ACR, but this is a huge learning curve. Calibrating ACR on its own can be a real mind bender.
I usually recommend NC instead of ACR because the learning curve for d70 users is so steep that ACR can be overwhelming and NC handles NEF files the way in which Nkon intended - ACR does not.
I have tried all of the other RAW manipulation software available. Some do some things better than NC, but overall I keep going back to NC for RAW adjustments. Keep in mind that NC is not an image editor - it is no
PS. I generally use it as the first step in post processing to make small adjustments to exposure, WB...
Sometimes I use Curve Surgery Pro from RawMagick (a bargain at US15) before and/or after NC because my in camera tone comp curve is just not right for the shot. Curve Surgery is for NEF files, Curve Therapy is for TIFF and JPEG. Raw Magick Lite is looking very promising as a RAW processor.
The standard tone comp curve is pretty horrible unless you are willing to spend time in PP. Colours are washed out and the image is dull. The images are very disappointing when compared to the instant saturated results of a P&S. Both of your images are standard d70 and could have used a different tone curve. It would have made a huge difference. I generally use Oldscools sReala curves, Nikon Low Contrast and sometimes the Nikon Normal Curve, depending on the situation. I would have used sReala for those shots.
I do not wish to over emphasise tone curves. They are just one part of the process for getting good results.
For the image editor, many are available.
PSE3 is a good one on a budget. It really does not seem to give to much away to
PSCS. It can be found bundled with some new scanners if you are in the market for a scanner. Alternatively I am sure that you could probably get it dirt cheap somewhere.
Paintshop Pro is another good one and very capable.
The Gimp had me scratching my head when I tried it out because colour management goes straight out the window. As a free image editor it is quite capable but users need to be aware that they give up a lot of control over colour between devices. eg monitor to printer. What you see on your monitor is not necessarily what you get from your printer. It would probably work quite well as long as everything is kept in the sRGB colour space (mode 1 or 3). There is a RAW plugin for The Gimp which works well. This could be a viable option for you if your budget is zero. Just be aware of its limitations.
A note, it is possible to shoot
mode1/3 aRGB or
mode2/sRGB with the d70 if you shoot RAW and use NC or ACR to open the images. Very handy. I work in aRGB but I can still shoot Mode1/3.
My photo suite is like this: NC, CSP,
PSCS + I calibrate my monitor using Spyder2PRO. I had this all sorted before I started buying lenses and accessories. I stuck it out with the kit lens and a 70-300.
This is what I recomend to others: NC, CSP,
PSE3 + hardware calibration. If you were living in my part of the world I would help you out with the monitor calibration.
Do not underestimate the importance of monitor calibration. This is one area that can cause much frustration. eg aRGB to sRGB conversions can cause colour shifts on uncalibrated monitors that can push ones sanity to the brink. Adobe Gamma and other visual tools are next to useless for calibration unless the user really knows what they are doing.
Now, having said all of that, I have made one fundamental mistake. I have assumed that you will be shooting RAW. There are a 101 compelling reasons to shoot RAW and not to many for shooting JPEG. The number one reason for shooting RAW is total control of post processing.
I apologise for the excessive length of my post. When I make a recomendation (in this case several), I feel obliged to explain why. Perhaps this really belongs in the tips and tricks forum.
Christmas Cheers to all
Matt