Page 1 of 1
Tips on store front and inside photography
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 12:52 pm
by nito
Just been hired to photograph a shop for a business. Any tips?
Thanks
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 12:54 pm
by birddog114
What shop? and what business?
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:08 pm
by nito
Dunno the name of the shop. Its a cigar shop in martin place. They are readying it for sales soon.
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:10 pm
by birddog114
nito wrote:Dunno the name of the shop. Its a cigar shop in martin place. They are readying it for sales soon.
WA lens in & outside shooting.
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:11 pm
by wmaburnett
Cigars shops around here are very dark and gloomy, so you may want to bring a nice flash unit if you've got one, probably a wide angle zoon also since im guessing it may not be a huge place either, I think itd be cool to get a shot of the owner or someone smokin a cigar with the smoke billowing, just my two cents based on the cigar shops ive seen here in the US,
~William
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:12 pm
by firsty
make sure you get a shot or two with lots of customers in it even if you have to find extra people to make it look popular (make sure they smile
)
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:15 pm
by gstark
Use a heavy duty tripod and a good ballhead.
Shoot vertical shots for stitching together as a panorama. It'll make the place look huge.
Use available light with the display cases illuminated, incident metering if you can, and the one constant set of exposure/wb etc settings for these shots.
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:22 pm
by nito
Yeah a dark store shot would be good. There wont be any customers since they are finishing it up. At least that was what the manager said.
Tripod is a must! Esp with the camera shake I will have on the day! So nervous.
Birddog, the 18-70 will do for the shot?
I think I need to capture some element of martin place with the store. But dunno where exactly it is located. Will need to do some homework on the location.
I dont even know how much I should charge them. Might do it for free and add it to my portfolio. Its only an hour of work.
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:26 pm
by birddog114
nito,
The 12-24 is perfect, 18-70 is not wide enough.
You can take my Nikkor 12-24 for the job.
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:28 pm
by gstark
nito wrote:Birddog, the 18-70 will do for the shot?
Should be fine.
What will the shots be used for? Print media? Website?
I think I need to capture some element of martin place with the store.
Yes, that would be good.
Its only an hour of work.
Famous last words.
Count on two in-store and environs. Add at least four for PP
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:44 pm
by stubbsy
You should definitely charge something - people never appreciate what they get for free. Even if you charge a few hundred. As Gary says - as well as the photo time, there's PP time too. And make sure thay understand you own the images and sort out what they can and can't use them for in advance (and put it in writing)
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 1:56 pm
by nito
stubbsy wrote:You should definitely charge something - people never appreciate what they get for free. Even if you charge a few hundred. As Gary says - as well as the photo time, there's PP time too. And make sure thay understand you own the images and sort out what they can and can't use them for in advance (and put it in writing)
I see your point peter. It would be better to charge. Esp since there will be quite a lot of PP work.
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:04 pm
by byrt_001
hi
look out for reflection on windows and glass. sometimes your own.
hope to see some of the work
christian
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:25 pm
by ABG
gstark wrote:Use a heavy duty tripod and a good ballhead.
Shoot vertical shots for stitching together as a panorama. It'll make the place look huge.
Use available light with the display cases illuminated, incident metering if you can, and the one constant set of exposure/wb etc settings for these shots.
Why incident metering Gary? What advantages will that give you over using in camera metering?
Posted:
Wed Apr 19, 2006 9:32 pm
by gstark
Andrew,
Inicident is a tad more accurate (IMHO) because it takes any colouration or shading (of the subject) out of the exposure reading.
Remember that in setting exposure you're taking a reading of the light falling on the subject, but you're usually doing this with a reflected light reading.
If your subject has a high (or low) level of reflectance, then that will affect the reading that you're getting, and you then need to calculate or otherwise determine some compensatory factrs to address that situation.
With an incident reading, you just decide what the primary subject is (or subjects are) and away you go.
For a studio (or fixed light scenario) I find it's a far more workable scenario.