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Not satisfied with just the great capabilites of teh Tamron 90mm macro - I want to explore further using either tubes (the Kenko set) or bellows. I know several members use these so I was interested in hearing your feedback.

Obviously each would get me in bloody close but is one method better than the other? If so, why? For maximum effect, would using both in combination be advisable, tolerable or just plain stupid?

Simon - I would suggest tubes. The bellows path is interesting but the expense far outweighs the results unless you are into micro photography. I used a bellows a few years back with two polarisers to obtain crystal structures - fascinating but limited.

Go the tubes first (cheap) and if the urge to go further is there - the bellows

Simon,

Bellows are probably a bit more flexible, because of the effectively infinite range of adjustments you have. You can go, for instance, from minimum to maximum extension just by winding them out, whereas with tubes, you only have a set amount of extension for each tube (or tube combo) that you use.

Further, with tubes you need to dismount and remount the various tube components as and when you find you need to alter the level of extension that you have in place. Not difficult, but not as convenient as being able to just wind out the rack.

Another benefit of using a bellows is that you can, if you're using a mount such as a tripod, micro adjust your focus point using the rack on the bellows.

Depending upon the sort of interface between you camera and the 'pod, you may or may not have a this sort option available using tubes, but as this setup is less common, it's most likely that you won't.

Using both, in concert, is possible, but I'd be a bit wary of this because of the amount of light thatyou're going to lose. Besides, I'm wondering too about how far out in front of the body this would put your front element, and thus how (very close) to the subject you might be.

If you look on eBay you can often pick up a bellows for a lot less than the price of a decent set of tubes.

Thanks gents - very informative.

A vote for both! Time to flip the coin..

There are some cheap bellows on ebay at the moment (AUD49 + postage from HK) but it might be false economy if they fall to pieces in a month's time.

I'll have a play with SteveGriffin's gear - he's got both tubes and bellows - before I decide which way I want to go and that would certainly be a good opportunity to test light loss scenarios.

Cheers guys.

moggy wrote:If you look on eBay you can often pick up a bellows for a lot less than the price of a decent set of tubes.

Thanks Bob - our messages must have passed each other. If you're talking about the Chinese-made ones, for $49, I'd be a little concerned about how long they'd last. They do look a bit flimsy but, I suppose, you get what you pay for.

Simon

I have a PB6 Bellows that I haven't used much yet. I have a habit of salting things away. It is very well built (Nikon of course) and was a reasonable price but you have to look for them. Maybe you can have a lend if you want to try it out.

Dargan wrote:Simon

I have a PB6 Bellows that I haven't used much yet. I have a habit of salting things away. It is very well built (Nikon of course) and was a reasonable price but you have to look for them. Maybe you can have a lend if you want to try it out.

Thanks for that Dargan - SteveGriffin's got a set and has offered them to me for a test drive.

Manta wrote:

Dargan wrote:Simon

I have a PB6 Bellows that I haven't used much yet. I have a habit of salting things away. It is very well built (Nikon of course) and was a reasonable price but you have to look for them. Maybe you can have a lend if you want to try it out.

Thanks for that Dargan - SteveGriffin's got a set and has offered them to me for a test drive.

....... this will be a learning curve..... start with things that don't move........ or you can put a brick on to slow them down

EDIT: and not the dog.......

big pix wrote:....... this will be a learning curve..... start with things that don't move........ or you can put a brick on to slow them down

EDIT: and not the dog.......

I take it that applies to the kids as well...?

I wouldn't put any money into dodgy brothers brand bellows Simon. I took nearly 6 months but I picked up my PB-6 and PS-6 (slide copying attachment) on ebay for about A$200 landed here.

I think that they may have been used but don't look like it.

The best feature of the bellows is the rack for microfocussing as Gary has suggested.

Good point Steve.

The search begins...

I have used both bellows & tubes in the past.
Both have advantages & disadvantages.
With bellows you have to use tripod. They are great for static subjects or studio shots.
Tubes are much more portable, so you can use them in the field - chasing bugs/flowers/etc.
Tubes are also cheaper then bellows - you can get non-auto tubes quite cheap. I would definitely go for Nikon bellows as opposed no-name brands.
You can also experiment with reversing a lens or adding reversed lens to your macro lens.
But beware - once you star you will not be able to stop.
Macro is very addictive...

Cheers for that Arek.

I know what you mean by addictive....

Manta wrote:Cheers for that Arek.

I know what you mean by addictive....

...... sorry to say that there is no known cure for what you have........

big pix wrote:

Manta wrote:Cheers for that Arek.

I know what you mean by addictive....

...... sorry to say that there is no known cure for what you have........

Prevention is better than cure... dont buy any macro accessories and you'll be cured for the long time...

Macrophotography is contageous as well... once he get some first shots, stay away from him everyone...

A note re PB6 bellows and D200 that I just read. A PB-6D and PK-13 auto-extension ring are required when using the PB-6 bellows with the MB-D200 (ie; the battery pack) I haven't tried this but know you can use the D70 without any extension ring even though some prior reading suggested you couldn't and had to have an extension ring. Can the D200 be used with the PB6, I don't know but will try when I get the chance. With the D70 you have to turn the engaging ring 90 degrees put the camera into portrait mode to clear the back of the adjuster and then reorient it.