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I've tried searching for the answer but i couldn't find anything.

I'm just wondering if the material used on the softbox will change the quality of the light and catchlight on the eyes, reason i'm asking is because photoflex, chimera et al can get pretty expensive and the ones on ebay are quite cheap.

I've seen some portraits where the catchlight on a person's eye's are so white it looks amazing and then i've seen some where its not so pronounced.

So the question is, does having a "better" quality softbox produce a better catchlight? Or is a softbox just a softbox and the whiteness in the catchlight has to do with the placement of the softbox, intesity of the light and colour of the eyes?

Thanks in advance.

I'm just wondering if the material used on the softbox will change the quality of the light and catchlight on the eyes, reason i'm asking is because photoflex, chimera et al can get pretty expensive and the ones on ebay are quite cheap.

The material will effect the color (although I think you might need a spectrometer to pick it), however, all are really going to produce white catchlights.

I've seen some portraits where the catchlight on a person's eye's are so white it looks amazing and then i've seen some where its not so pronounced.

Some togs will whiten eyes, and also edit catchlights (some will even leave a signature in teh catchlight).

So the question is, does having a "better" quality softbox produce a better catchlight? Or is a softbox just a softbox and the whiteness in the catchlight has to do with the placement of the softbox, intesity of the light and colour of the eyes?

I focus more the shape of catchlight, but I would not choose the shape of the softbox, based on the desired catchlight (as they are easy to edit in PP), I would select the size, and shape of softbox, based on what I want to light, and how much, and how even... and what my budget was.

If this is your first softbox, start out with an entry level one, such as a 60x60cm.

Or perhaps you could tell us more about what you are shooting? 60cm is fine for products, but a little small for full length fashion... and, what are your budget expectations, as the answers are different if you have $100 AUD, or $1000 AUD...

I personally think calumetphoto.com have some good pricing (as many of the "calumet" brands, are the Bowens/Photoflex brands, rebadged, and half price.

most softboxes have the same material
so getting a certain kind of catch light effect has more to do with placement

and usually you can tell the lighting setup from studying the reflection of the lights in the eyes of the model

Oz_Beachside wrote:The material will effect the color (although I think you might need a spectrometer to pick it), however, all are really going to produce white catchlights.

Well reason i'm asking is cos is because the catchlight from this photo is SO white compared to my attempt here

Oz_Beachside wrote:Some togs will whiten eyes, and also edit catchlights (some will even leave a signature in teh catchlight).

Yeah i've realised this, i guess, its just a matter of me practising more with PS.

Oz_Beachside wrote:I focus more the shape of catchlight, but I would not choose the shape of the softbox, based on the desired catchlight (as they are easy to edit in PP), I would select the size, and shape of softbox, based on what I want to light, and how much, and how even... and what my budget was.

If this is your first softbox, start out with an entry level one, such as a 60x60cm.

Or perhaps you could tell us more about what you are shooting? 60cm is fine for products, but a little small for full length fashion... and, what are your budget expectations, as the answers are different if you have $100 AUD, or $1000 AUD...

I'm mainly focusing on portrait work (of family, friends and their kids), and i've got a 90x90 one from ebay, actually i got 2 of em, but i'm not really liking the double square catchlights, maybe i should just use the umbrella for fill.

wendellt wrote:most softboxes have the same material
so getting a certain kind of catch light effect has more to do with placement

and usually you can tell the lighting setup from studying the reflection of the lights in the eyes of the model

Yeah i'm trying to do that, i guess its all a matter or practice, practice and more practice, bit difficult when there's no many people in my family that want to practice for as long as i do

Maybe a head dummy would be better to practice on, at least you won't get complaints when the flash goes off

The problem with a dummy is that it might not give you any catchlights, given that they are reflections of the lights, but not actually being bounced from the eyes, but from the tear/wetness of your subject's eyes.

As Wendell points out, it's more to do with placement, and thus if you're using two softboxes, and you're not liking the results, then you need to go abck and review the relationship between your subjects and the lighting setup (placement) that you're using.

How close to the lights are your subjects? Can you move the lights further away/higher/lower/more to one side in orderr to help address the problem?

What about the power settings of the lights? Can this be reduced?

What about reflectors? Could (should?) you use a reflector in lace of one of the lights?

Could you perhaps give us some idea of the setup that you're using?

Here's the setup i had for the shot i posted earlier.



As you can see, the catchlights suck, i want them to be more white like my earlier link to dpreview.

I guess ALOT of it is practice.

your diagram does not show the metering from the two softboxes. Maybe they are two low powered, and are not producing bright enough input?

I notice very little modelling in the face. Perhaps your softboxes are merely working as reflectors for your backdrop lights?

At first glance, the brightness of your catchlights, looks a lot like a reflector strength, not a flash.

Meter your softboxes, and tell us more?

placement is ok, since you can see the catchlights from both softboxes, but they are too light (when comparing to your reference in dpreview).

Oz_Beachside wrote:I notice very little modelling in the face.

Hehe, yeah i wasn't really wanting my bro to do a proper modelling shoot or anything like that, i just got him to pose for me to test, i have no clue about posing or anything like that, this is all new to me.

Oz_Beachside wrote:At first glance, the brightness of your catchlights, looks a lot like a reflector strength, not a flash.

Yeah it definately doesn't look like the strength of a flash, definately looks more like a reflector, thats the main reason i was worried.

Oz_Beachside wrote:Meter your softboxes, and tell us more?

I don't have a meter yet

The sekonic L358 is on my to buy list

what shutterspeed are you using?

sometimes if you use a higher shutterspeed faster than the sync speed of the strobe you will miss capturing the initial light burst from the strobe and just capture bounced ambient light

like 1/320 when max sync speed camera/strobe is 1/250

any sort of intensity burst from that softbox should should be reflected on the eyes

You are going to need a meter, however, that doesnt mean you can just use your digital camera.

You could just bump the front lights up, along with your exposure, until the light from the soft box, is 1-2 stops lower than your backlights (or more if you want blownout as is).

Alternatively, back off your backlights, and lower your f-stop until you can see the catchlights.

However, this is trial and error, with a meter, you can get it upfront, before the model steps onto the set. L-358's are pretty cheap on ebay or from HK. L-308 would also be a goo starting point...

wendellt wrote:what shutterspeed are you using?

I'm using below max sync of the st-e2, so definately slower then 1/250, i think i was shooting at 1/160 for that particular shot.

Oz_Beachside wrote:You are going to need a meter

I know, i know

I told myself i was going to get a light meter this month, but i got a really good deal on an mpe65mm and mt24ex so that came first

Oz_Beachside wrote:however, that doesnt mean you can just use your digital camera.

You could just bump the front lights up, along with your exposure, until the light from the soft box, is 1-2 stops lower than your backlights (or more if you want blownout as is).

Alternatively, back off your backlights, and lower your f-stop until you can see the catchlights.

However, this is trial and error, with a meter, you can get it upfront, before the model steps onto the set. L-358's are pretty cheap on ebay or from HK. L-308 would also be a goo starting point...

Yeah thats what i've been trying to do, trial and error, however you're right, with a meter, everything is going to be a lot easier (even though i don't know how to use one of those things ).

I'll definately be purchasing the 358.