Still using a handheld lightmeter?

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Still using a handheld lightmeter?

Postby lejazzcat on Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:45 pm

Nikons reputation for TTL metering is world renowned. $1k+,not bad for a accurate reflective meter, and all the rest of the guts of a d70 !

OK, as it so easy to compensate exposure on nef files now, does anyone still advocate using a quality (sekonic,gossen...) handheld incident/flash meter for digital, or is it only useful for film?

Anyone here use multiple flash head setups in a studio using the TTL metering? Happy with it?
So many ideas. So little time.

"The camera is much more than a recording apparatus, it is a medium via which messages reach us from another world, a world that is not ours and that brings us to the heart of a great secret" Orson Welles
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Postby sirhc55 on Sat Feb 12, 2005 12:51 pm

For the cost of a good light meter I could buy the 24-120VR or even another D70 body - so I just rely on the metering in the camera and always shoot RAW.

I have used studio strobes many times but as a rule I use manual settings on the camera and bracket the shots - this is in digital of course.
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Postby lejazzcat on Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:27 pm

sirhc55 wrote:
For the cost of a good light meter I could buy the 24-120VR or even another D70 body - so I just rely on the metering in the camera and always shoot RAW.

Hi Chris,
yep - im looking for the max. bang for my buck too. Hence..
I have used studio strobes many times but as a rule I use manual settings on the camera and bracket the shots - this is in digital of course.


Come to think of it , can the D70 use iTTL on a externally synced strobe packs?I seem to recall it only works with the Sb800/600.
Is the exposure taken off the CCD or from another sensor?

And I guess youd need a mid grey to measure your reflected light off .

And what about backlit subjects throwing the ttl meter off - or are the 3d matrix/presets for highlights and shadows that good these days?

I suppose that its the ease of digital that you can keep shooting or bracket extensively, until you get your best contrast balance , but im also thinking that if the CCD(?) has such a narrow room for error of exposure(much less than print film), that a good meter would be even more important for getting max detail.
So many ideas. So little time.

"The camera is much more than a recording apparatus, it is a medium via which messages reach us from another world, a world that is not ours and that brings us to the heart of a great secret" Orson Welles
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Postby sirhc55 on Sat Feb 12, 2005 1:44 pm

lejazzcat wrote:
sirhc55 wrote:
For the cost of a good light meter I could buy the 24-120VR or even another D70 body - so I just rely on the metering in the camera and always shoot RAW.

Hi Chris,
yep - im looking for the max. bang for my buck too. Hence..
I have used studio strobes many times but as a rule I use manual settings on the camera and bracket the shots - this is in digital of course.


Come to think of it , can the D70 use iTTL on a externally synced strobe packs?I seem to recall it only works with the Sb800/600.
Is the exposure taken off the CCD or from another sensor?

And I guess youd need a mid grey to measure your reflected light off .

And what about backlit subjects throwing the ttl meter off - or are the 3d matrix/presets for highlights and shadows that good these days?

I suppose that its the ease of digital that you can keep shooting or bracket extensively, until you get your best contrast balance , but im also thinking that if the CCD(?) has such a narrow room for error of exposure(much less than print film), that a good meter would be even more important for getting max detail.


Basically the SB800 and SB600 are the only methods for using iTTL - it will not work with studio strobes.

The metering is accomplished by a 1005 RGB cell within the viewfinder - this is one of the reasons for the viewfinder cap to be used when you don’t have your eye to the viewfinder. It stops light affecting the sensor.

You could use the spot meter (in the D70) in situations that you have described, from different parts of the subject then do an interpolation for the final aperture and shutter speed.

Personally, I just get it near and bracket - seems to work
Chris
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Postby redline on Sat Feb 12, 2005 2:43 pm

well i signed up for a photo classes and they ask me to buy a flash light meter.
i purchased the sekonic L-358 with the pocket wizard remote trigger for alittle extra. pretty good for trigger lights without cords.
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Postby Matt. K on Mon Feb 14, 2005 11:27 pm

Redline
Brilliant for studio flash set up...worthless for the SB800.
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