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Hi guys,

The following image is obviously a guage dial I am doing for a friend of mine.
I am using PhotoshopCS, but need to do 2 things to the colour which I am experiencing great difficulty with. To be be bloody honest, I have virtually no idea how to correct it and in fact, don't have a lot of experience with Photoshop, but am percevering.

1, I need the image more olive in colour and 2, it needs to have a slite silver effect.

If anyone can advise, I would sincerely appreciate it.


Nige

is this what your after?

I think he said he wanted it to be olive but with a slight silver effect (I think he means metalic look or glitter feel to it)

How's the image going to be used? What's it for?

my interpretation must be off. you will definately struggle to come up with a silver effect from photoshop!

I would create a layer using only the gauge, then use level and curve adjustment for the colour and duplicate the layer again to add noise and change the blending option to "screen" to adjust the effect.
Cheers,
Gerard

here is a quick example before I go:http://www.pbase.com/glalamy/image/41378134.jpg
Cheers,
Gerard

Hi Nigel,
Lots of ways to change colour, but here's one:

To get the olive colour, first select the dial with a circular marquee (using guides & holding the shift key to constrain to a circle helps)
Then use image> adjustments>selective colour
pick greens in the selection box, then play with the sliders to get the shade you want.
(I've used cyan +100, magenta +55, yellow -55, black +55)
Use the neutrals selection to darken the selection (I've used Black +15)

Alternatively you can use image>adjustments> hue/saturation
-move the hue slider to taste.
(note that this changes all hues together, but for this simple single toned image, it should be fine)
Both of these methods can be done as a layer. This allows you to go back & change things as necessary.

As for the silver look. Not sure what you are looking for.
If its simply a brushed steel sort of look, try:
-select dial
-create new layer
-ctrl-backspace to fill
-filter>noise>Add noise
- about 50% gaussian monochromatic
-filter>blur>motion blur
-any direction (I use horizontal) & about 100pixels
-use different blend modes & opacities to taste.

can also add a metallic higlight:
-select dial
create new layer
-use gradient tool select circular gradient
-drag out a spot from within dial
-use layer opacity & blend modes to adjust to taste

If you are looking to metallicise the numbers & markings it gets a bit more complicated.
I'll see what I can come up with.

Let me know if I'm not clear enough or if there are any problems.

Cheers
Joolz

Thanks heaps guys, will definitely be trying the advice from all.

Kipper's idea is correct, more olive plus metallic look.

Further problem is, what prints off, is completely different to the screen. See I am going to have to invest in some calibration software/hardware.

The image is to be printed on label paper, cut out and stuck on the guage. The current face of the guage is black and is an optional extra for an old MG, while the remainder of the dials and guages are this olivey/silvery colour.

We have a reasonable scanner and colour printer at work, however they were unable to duplicate the colour, particularly the metallic silver effect, so now it's hands on in PS.

Regards
Nige

Hi Nigel,
You wouldn't be able to provide a photo of the silver dial for reference could you?

Joolz

That's why I thought I'd ask what the end product is going to be. You're probably best off getting some metalic olive green sheets that can be printed on. Then just do the guage parts in black and print on it. Seems like it's going to be hard to get the metalic look any other way.

Hi Nige,

Have you thought of printing it on overhead transperancy film and then backing it with aluminium or another sheet metal? This should give you the metal look as printing it will not really look as effective.

Alistair

Thanks again Guys,

I somehow think that perhaps the major part of my problem is in fact the disparity between my printer and monitor. At the moment the two are chalk and cheese.

After following some of the previous advice, I was able to get close on screen, but looked terrible when printed. The same applies at work.

Thanks again and will concentrate on calibrating the monitor and printer and try again.

Will report back if any success.


Regards
Nige