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Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience ordering some darkroom chemicals from B&H and if Oz Customs red flags them, since well, they're chemicals

I'm going back old school and resume developing my own b/w negs again. It seems to be cheaper (though laborious) way instead of sending it off to be process (around $15/36 exposures)

Many thanks

Why don't you look locally? Vanbar & Foto Riesel in Sydney stock and distribute chemicals. If you want to go back to first principles, you can order base raw chemicals from Vanbar online to make your own developer.

The shopfront at Vanbar Sydney has a reasonable range of film and paper developers plus stop and fixer. Just a quick point of comparison, I picked up some Adonal (500ml) on Saturday for about $21 and the price at B&H is USD15 - not sure what postage would be, but you may need to order a bit before the unitised postage cost makes B&H more competitive?

Hi Patrick,

I have checked into Vanbar but their prices are twice more expensive than buying from BH Photo.

As well as buying the chemicals from BH, I'm also buying some other non-darkroom related equipment which makes buying and shipping from BH more economic.

However I am planning to purchase from Vanbar once I need to top up certain chemicals.

Hmmm, perhaps combined order may be the go to reduce shipping costs...if you are interested, of course.

devilla101 wrote:Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience ordering some darkroom chemicals from B&H and if Oz Customs red flags them, since well, they're chemicals

I don't think that customs would be the issue.

The airlines though? That might be a challenge. Are the chemicals able to be carried by air?

devilla101 wrote:(around $15/36 exposures)

Process negs only?

WOW! That's 42c per image!

gstark wrote:

devilla101 wrote:Hey guys,

Just wondering if anyone has had any experience ordering some darkroom chemicals from B&H and if Oz Customs red flags them, since well, they're chemicals

I don't think that customs would be the issue.

The airlines though? That might be a challenge. Are the chemicals able to be carried by air?

No idea Gary. Some of the chemicals are in the powdered form and some are liquid. That's why I'm a bit iffy.

photohiker wrote:

devilla101 wrote:(around $15/36 exposures)

Process negs only?

WOW! That's 42c per image!

Yep exactly. When I inquired a lab, processing colored photos where cheaper by close to 50%. I might just trash the idea and just load up on XP2s. Although I am still keen on shooting some good 'ol Delta 400s.

devilla101 wrote:

photohiker wrote:

devilla101 wrote:(around $15/36 exposures)

Process negs only?

WOW! That's 42c per image!

Yep exactly. When I inquired a lab, processing colored photos where cheaper by close to 50%. I might just trash the idea and just load up on XP2s. Although I am still keen on shooting some good 'ol Delta 400s.

Send them down here to B&W in Adelaide. $6.50 process 135 or 120. (Same price as colour neg)

Cheers.

Kodak HC110. Diluted down makes a wonderful and very economical 1 shot developer Even D76 diluted at 1:3 is pretty economical. Don't need a stop bath....so Dev and fixer only required.

Matt. K wrote:Kodak HC110. Diluted down makes a wonderful and very economical 1 shot developer Even D76 diluted at 1:3 is pretty economical. Don't need a stop bath....so Dev and fixer only required.

Yes, but stop bath is cheap. Weak ascetic acid. It's the dev and hypo that costs.

Stop it! I've got a complete kit sitting down in the basement. You're waking it up, I can hear it calling...

Much debate about the need for stopbath. Any development after first rinse is beneficial as it aids acutance, (edge sharpness). Also, use of stopbath may cause pinholes in the emulsion. I have never used a stopbath for negative processing in over 40 years of processing B&W film. However it is essential in print processing. I was also a great fan of waterbath processing for film development.

Matt. K wrote:Much debate about the need for stopbath. Any development after first rinse is beneficial as it aids acutance, (edge sharpness). Also, use of stopbath may cause pinholes in the emulsion. I have never used a stopbath for negative processing in over 40 years of processing B&W film. However it is essential in print processing. I was also a great fan of waterbath processing for film development.

Matt, I use Ilford Stop and have had no apparent pinhole problems. However, I have ordered some Adox CHS 50 film, for which the manufacturer specifies that a water stop is recommended. My question is: if I would ordinarily use Ilford stop for 1 minute with 30 seconds of agitation, how would I use a water stopbath? Does it need to be longer? Is it like the final wash for a shorter period of time?

I have also ordered some Ilford Pan F 50, so I will have a good point of comparison for relatively slow B&W film. In addition, I have ordered some FP4+ which is currently my favourate film.

Just saw this thread. Les Porter in Newcastle does sell all you need for B&W. Not sure how his prices compare on these products but for other supplies, he tends to be competitive. See his price list on his website:
http://www.lesporter.com.au/

Patrick
At the end of the development time just dump the dev and refill the tank with water. Let it sit for 15 minutes or so, (don't agitate), during which time the very diluted developer that is left in the tank becomes exhausted in the shadow areas almost immediately but keeps working gently in the highlight areas, where you can always do with a little extra development. It's not very scientific but gives a slight improvement in edge sharpness/contrast. The other technique is waterbath development where you develop your film for 1 minute then replace the dev with water for 1 minute and the put the dev back in for 1 minute etc etc. You need to use a shorter development time than normal and you should be able to find more info on the internet. You get an increase in dynamic range and extra edge sharpness. It's a bit like making your own beer.

Matt,

Some very interesting suggestions there.

I've never used a stop bath either, not in film, nor in printing. I may have to break out some AP100 and ID11.

Thanks Matt. How would a standing stop bath compare to a wash with running water?

Bare in mind that dev is very alkaline and stopbath is very acidic....they just don't get along, so just dump the dev and go straight into your wash. I normally wash for 20 minutes under running water at 20 degrees. Fill the tank with water and agitate gently then dump the water. Do this about 5 times and you have about 90% of the dev out of the system. The next 15 mins gets rid of the rest. It pays to always wash your negs very thoroughly. They will outlast you if you do that.

Just received my Adox CHS 50 (hopefully survived the flight from Deutschland) and will give the 15 minute water stop bath a go. Can't wait.