DSLRUsers.com

I've been thinking of getting an Acra Swiss style L-Bracket (L-Plate) for some time now and am thinking of purchasing one and seeing how it goes. I'd be interested in the opinions of those who've used L Plates and specifically any of the following brands (or better yet models)

First up to set some expectations:
- I have a Nikon D7000 (and a D90 which I don't use much ) and I guess in future I may upgrade the body (D600 maybe )
- I often shoot landscapes/seascapes (& macro) and do shoot quite a few verticals so the L-Plates prime ability to switch orientations without having to flop over the ballhead is attractive
- I often use a wired remote release (even my wireless one still plugs a dongle into the wired side port) so I *need* to still be able to open and access the small lower side door of the camera (don't really care about the large upper door). I'm presuming that even with the door open and the cable in I can still mount the camera vertically more towards the edge of the arca clamp with the cable going past the clamp edge?
- The intent would be to use the L Plate as per expected and leave it on the camera almost permanently (unless I mount the Battery Grip which is like maybe twice a year)

I'm aware of at least the following L-Brackets which should fit the D7000 (in decreasing order of price):

Kirk BL-D7000 US$130+Delivery http://www.kirkphoto.com/L-Bracket_for_Nikon_D7000.html

ReallyRightStuff BD7000-L Set $US120+Delivery http://reallyrightstuff.com/ProductDesc ... &type=3&eq

Sunwayfoto Universal L Plate Wide Base DPL-04 (or DPL-03) US$89+33 http://www.sunwayfoto.us/lplates.html & http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUNWAYFOTO-U ... 599wt_1208

Hejnar Photo D7000 L Bracket US$90+20 http://www.hejnarphotostore.com/index.p ... ucts_id=65
or his Universal L Bracket for the same price http://www.hejnarphotostore.com/index.p ... cts_id=171

ProMediaGear PLND7000 US$90+13 (via eBay store) http://store.promediagear.com/L-Bracket ... _p_44.html

The upside for the D7000 model specific plates are they fit like a glove on the D7000, the downside is that they basically can't be reused on other camera bodies and I think with most models you basically can't open the side doors in the field (and if so would be a deal breaker for me) - Question: does anyone have one with which you can open the (lower) side door (easily)?

An upside with the two part plates is you can use the lower plate by itself (like a standard arca plate) - Question: does anyone seriously do this?

The upside for the universal plate (and even some model specific two part plates) is you can often use it on other bodies and most also allow you to slightly offset the side plate further from the body allowing you to open the side door - Question: does this actually work (leaving a gap at the side - and does it "feel" bad?

What's the consensus on the stop screws (to stop the plates (and camera) falling out if loose)? I notice not all the L Plates above have them

So does anyone have any experience with any of these plates and specifically if you can open the lower door on the D7000?


NB: For those who are interested I recently ordered the Sunwayfoto DLC-50 50mm Duo-Lever Adjustable Arca Clamp
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sunwayfoto-D ... 930wt_1214
and the Sunwayfoto 56mm Camera Body Arca Plate DPG-50U
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUNWAYFOTO-5 ... 665wt_1208
to try (hasn't arrived yet) - trying both the brand and the idea of using a lever style clamp (hedging my bets here because this clamp can be used either as a lever style or traditional screw type (which my existing one is)). I have multiple tripods/monopod and only one is currently Arca compatible and I plan to convert all to Arca and add plates to my cameras and lenses.

Thanks

Rodney...

My RRS brackets allow me to open the access panels on my cameras...Greg will have a RRS one on his D7000 so check with him...if I see Katrina's RRS bracket before Greg sees this thread I will let you know.

I only have experience with Really Right Stuff plates, so I cannot give you any comparative information.

The RRS gear is beautifully made and sturdy too. It looks like you could belt it with a hammer and not do it any harm.
It is machined for the particular camera body, so when you change cameras you have to change plates too. I don't see how they could do it any differently given the way they fit them to the camera.
I have just sold some plates and have ordered replacements for my new camera.

With the RRS L-plate you can normally access the side doors on the camera whilst it is in the bracket. Usually the battery door too. But I can't recall ever having to do this - it would be a marathon effort of shooting on a tripod if you had to change batteries.

So, I can recommend RRS plates. Whether they are any better or worse than the others you mention I cannot say.

RRS L Plate with the D7000:
You can close the access panels, but not open them with the plate hard up against the camera which is where I have it normally. You can loosen it off and slide it to one side then lock it down again which gives you full access to the door. but that would be a pain in everyday use.
You can also move the plate, open the door, then move it back again with the door open, but this would compromise the weather sealing if that is an issue for you in your planned scenario.

Personally I have never removed the L part, but you would solve your access problems if you took the side plate off when using the remote. Of course that would sacrifice portrait mode for that shoot. I also believe they have a stand off that you could use all the time, but that would make the plate bulky and intrusive. Another option would be to file e a small curve out of the plate to give you access to the door. I don't think this would compromise the plate in any way. as ff says they are built like architect designed brick dunnies.
I haven't tried it in portrait mode with a cable in place - I have an ML-3 (or is it ML-L3?) so that is not an issue for me. But with the D200 I could use the camera in portrait with a USB cable plugged with limited travel in the clamp as you describe.

I have noticed it does not work in a Vixen Dovetail clamp while my D800 plate does. But that is speciality use. Vixen clamps & rails are used to hold telescopes onto their mounts and are MUCH bigger than Arca-Swiss style.

I will play some more tomorrow and report back. PS I love RRS gear and would never look at the other brands. It all just works. And while I haven't hit it with a hammer, I have used it as one. And I have dropped it onto rocks with only a few scratches resulting

Mr Darcy wrote:PS I love RRS gear and would never look at the other brands. It all just works.

And while I haven't hit it with a hammer, I have used it as one. And I have dropped it onto rocks with only a few scratches resulting

You will have to show me the results....you never know when you need a hammer

Thankyou all

Mr Darcy wrote:RRS L Plate with the D7000: You can close the access panels, but not open them with the plate hard up against the camera which is where I have it normally. You can loosen it off and slide it to one side then lock it down again which gives you full access to the door. but that would be a pain in everyday use.

Yep that was my fear - I don't want to move the plate back and forth or remove it, etc (esp with it needing an allen key to undo) - I just want to leave it on AND still access just that lower door for the remote.

Personally I have never removed the L part, but you would solve your access problems if you took the side plate off when using the remote. Of course that would sacrifice portrait mode for that shoot.

Yep - my thinking too - when I'm using the remote on the tripod is the time I want to go portrait so thats no good for me either

I also believe they have a stand off that you could use all the time, but that would make the plate bulky and intrusive.

Yep - but maybe the best compromise in my case

Another option would be to file e a small curve out of the plate to give you access to the door.

This appears to be what the Kirk and ProMediaGear plates do (has filed off bits where the door flaps are) - even so one of the reviewers of the ProMediaGear plate indicated you still can't open the left side flaps when the side rail is on and the Kirk web site says "We recommend the use of the Nikon ML-L3 Remote Controller with this bracket" which is probably a hint that you can't open the doors.

I haven't tried it in portrait mode with a cable in place - I have an ML-3 (or is it ML-L3?) so that is not an issue for me.

I have that wireless remote too but I'm often doing shots longer than 30 seconds so the intervalometer is the go

Whilst I'm sure the RSS is the bees knees I'm just not sure it will suit how I want to use it (plus it's not in stock anyway)

Note when I say I want to be able to open the side door with the plate on I don't mean open the door first and then put the plate on (which all can do) but rather leave the plate on and open and close the side flaps whenever I want.

- the RSS (out of stock and you say you cannot open the side doors with the plate on and no stop screws?)
- Kirk (has filed semi circles in the side rail right where the door flaps are presumably to assist opening those doors - but it's web site says - "We recommend the use of the Nikon ML-L3 Remote Controller with this bracket" - which to me basically says you can't open the doors with the plate on, and no stop screws)
- ProMediaGear (also has filed side rails where the door flaps are - however a reviewer indicated he couldn't open the door flaps with the plate on, has stop screws on bottom and side rails)
- the Hejnar Photo (is also D7000 specific but doesn't look to be body hugging as the above and no stop screws)

So whilst you may be able to freely open and close the side flaps with other cameras it looks like the D7000 at least causes issues with this with pretty much every plate. I'm tempted to at least try one of the plates which has the filed semi circles in the side rail right where the door flaps are because they seem the most likely candidates for opening the doors whilst the plate is on - the only one with stop screws appears to be the ProMediaGear one so perhaps it hits the top of the list by default...

Remorhaz wrote:- the RSS (out of stock and you say you cannot open the side doors with the plate on and no stop screws?)
- Kirk (has filed semi circles in the side rail right where the door flaps are presumably to assist opening those doors

There are two RSS L-plates for the D7000, the two-part BD7000-L and the one-part BMBD11-L for use in conjunction with the battery grip. I haven't seen the former but I own the latter. It doesn't have those cut-outs (like the D2H L-plate I had before) to help you get your fingernail to the rubber flaps, but it is possible to open the flaps, if a bit tricky. I usually use a small blade, like a small screwdriver. I never move or remove the L-plate. If I need to get rid of it for some reason I just take the battery grip off.

Cheers
Steffen.

Sounds to me like an email to both RRS and Kirk would net you the answers you need.

I've dealt with both and have always had good response to my emails. In fact, I replied to a RRS shipment email at 7:48AM this morning, and had a reply back at 8:05AM. You can't ask for better than that!

correct me if i am wrong, i know nothing about this shit, but a few observations;

1) the main issue arises since the flap on the D7000 is too wide right? thus the the real problem is on teh bracket there is only so much width (limited by the mating plate) to work with so there is no option to make one with a 'bigger' space to allow the flap to open correctly.

2) one solution, and i even pulled out my d7000 to have a look, would be to be able to move the whole L bracket aft (towards the LCD) by 0.15" (couple of mm) so you could get your fingernail under the lip to open it up, even though the forward hinge maybe be partially covered you should be able to open it up to 45 degrees, enough to get your door open.

3) the sunwayfoto looks promising since you can translate it forward and aft, there is plenty of meat in the opening for the little flap door thus allowing some after market mods (filing) to allow better access to teh door, either making it bigger or just openign it up a bit to allow the hinge (flap) to open better.

4) if it was me, i reckon i would just make one up, plates and all thus negating any issue with the door access and redefining teh arca mount

biggerry wrote:4) if it was me, i reckon i would just make one up, plates and all thus negating any issue with the door access and redefining teh arca mount

Another suggestion is to ask the company to make a custom bracket for you.

photohiker wrote:Sounds to me like an email to both RRS and Kirk would net you the answers you need.

OK got responses from the four vendors:

Kirk - simply said "yes it's easy" (which I find hard to believe given the next three)

RSS - gave a very useful response:
"I use the D7000 and only shoot with the cable release. Nikon's design with the port doors was a little odd on this camera. The doors are on hinges and take up the entire left-hand side of the camera body. Thus in order for us to stay within the 38mm Arca-Swiss standard we had to work around those doors. You'll notice on the bottom of the base component where the captive screw attaches to the camera there is a slot. You can loosen the captive screw and push the L-Plate away from the left-hand side of your camera body. This will create about an inch gap, giving you all the necessary clearance. I personally keep my L-plate pushed away at all times--when I handhold for shooting events I find it very helpful as it creates somewhat of a second hand grip for me. It is perfectly stable using the camera in landscape or portrait orientation with the plate pushed away"

ProMediaGear - also a good response:
"We do have a solution but it's not perfect. What you do is open the door then put in the L-bracket, otherwise the lip for the door will be covered by the vertical side of the plate. Once the door is open you can semi-close it and it will stay within the arca-swiss rail. I wish nikon would use smaller door design"

HejnarPhoto:
"Each L bracket will has to be slide toward left to access ports. I have slot on base in each of model you mentioned"

So I think I'll believe the later three and ignore the unlikely first.

I don't think I'll want to do what RSS or HejnarPhoto suggests - from what others have said it sounds like I might as well go with a universal plate if I do this and likewise I don't think the suggestion to leave the doors open is a great idea for a seascape shooter either.

biggerry wrote:2) one solution, and i even pulled out my d7000 to have a look, would be to be able to move the whole L bracket aft (towards the LCD) by 0.15" (couple of mm) so you could get your fingernail under the lip to open it up, even though the forward hinge maybe be partially covered you should be able to open it up to 45 degrees, enough to get your door open

Hadn't though of that and it might work - likely only with the universal plates - since the D7000 specific ones often have bits which hug the base of the camera body (going up the front or back) to stop the plate rotating on the body

3) the sunwayfoto looks promising since you can translate it forward and aft, there is plenty of meat in the opening for the little flap door thus allowing some after market mods (filing) to allow better access to teh door, either making it bigger or just openign it up a bit to allow the hinge (flap) to open better

if I get brave I might consider getting one of the plates and grinding out some of the inside of the side rail or work out another way to open the flap (perhaps putting in some sort of tab along the top edge?)

and a custom build (either myself or getting someone else to do it) sounds like taking things a bit too far

OK I got to do some checking.
This is the clearance as I normally have the bracket:


20120726-_GK83741.jpg by gregdarcy, on Flickr

And with the LBracket removed ( The base plate is still on)


Then I moved the bracket out a little & was able to get to the door flap and open it with one of the attachments on my SAK:

I found it no problem holding the camera in this position & may well leave it here. The slot in the bottom allows it to move about 15mm. I moved it about 2mm.
The reply from RRS indicates he has it in the fully out position.

This is the cable in use in Portrait mode using the above configuration.


Click through any photo for bigger. I uploaded at 1618 x 1080.
Apologies about quality They were all hand held available light except the last where I grabbed a flash as it was just too dark. -It clouded over some more.

Thanks Greg - thats awesome! - just moving out a few mm instead of having the side plate an inch from the side of the camera seems like a much better idea - could probably even file a couple mm groove (like the Kirk and PMG plates have) and use the thin tool to lever the door open through he gap like you do

No worries.
Have you picked up the tubes from Cam yet?

Mr Darcy wrote:No worries. Have you picked up the tubes from Cam yet?

Yes thanks - I've only tried them quickly for a few handheld shots outside and not for anything real yet - been insanely busy lately - hope to get a chance to try them soon

I use an Arca-Swiss adjustable L-Bracket. Not cheap but as you buy new cameras you can swap it to them. I got mine from Robert White, also available from B&H. You can slide the side plate away if required without removing the camera from the tripod.

I've also been using the SunwayPhoto adjustable clamps for about 6 months and find them very good. You no longer have to worry about compatibility.