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I wonder if anyone in our forum still use the Light meter with the DSLR:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/control ... 412&is=REG

or this:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/control ... 078&is=REG

If yes, please explain why?

I've used the light meter in the studio with the D70. I don't find the D70 light meter to be all that accurate and I had better results using one of the older Sekonics (which was what I had at the time) with 3 or 4 light heads in the studio with the D70.

hey birddog,
i use the 358
you can remote fire your flashes using it and use it to test the how bright a scene is comparation to black and white e.g weddings.
also it doesn't get fooled like in camera meters e.g using incident metering to read a back lit subject

redline wrote:hey birddog,
i use the 358
you can remote fire your flashes using it and use it to test the how bright a scene is comparation to black and white e.g weddings.
also it doesn't get fooled like in camera meters e.g using incident metering to read a back lit subject

Redline,
I propose to lust the Sekonic L-558 instead of the 358, what's your opinion?

The main reason why I want the light meter cos I'm going back ward and try to lust more AI-S lenses with f1.2 and play full manual, I don't trust the meter in the DSLR, even with the precisely D2x.

well the 358 cover all you bases with still photography the other unit has movie modes and 1degree readings, what going to get the polaris model but the sekonic won me over with the pocket wizard firing. I am
not sure what you plan on shooting but it would mostly be studio based using a light meter. you can't use it to meter a scene 60 meters away then shoot with you 400 zoom if that what you plan on doing.

why not get it metering chiped?

Birddog,

The main differences I'm seeing seem to be some pretty arcane extra add-ons for the 558. Given that it's more than double the price, the question becomes one of whether or not you have a need for those extras.

For me, the 358 seems to have the features that would work in about 99.9% of cases one would ordinarily expect to encounter.

That said, the histogram, combined with a couple of test shots, is pretty useful too.

Birddog114 wrote:The main reason why I want the light meter cos I'm going back ward and try to lust more AI-S lenses with f1.2 and play full manual, I don't trust the meter in the DSLR, even with the precisely D2x.

why don't you trust it? millions of dollars of research went into the metering of these units. they work fine you need to know its limitations and where they become fooled. a good knowledge of the zone system and exposure to understand how these things happen.
i would't trust the auto wb though on these camera.

redline wrote:well the 358 cover all you bases with still photography the other unit has movie modes and 1degree readings, what going to get the polaris model but the sekonic won me over with the pocket wizard firing. I am
not sure what you plan on shooting but it would mostly be studio based using a light meter. you can't use it to meter a scene 60 meters away then shoot with you 400 zoom if that what you plan on doing.

redline,
I don't like studio and never plan to have a studio at my places.
I'll use the Sekonic Light meter with most the 50/ 58/ 85/ 105mm both in AI-S and AF-D in some events with the room as 10 x 10 or smaller, max. distance is 10 meters, but the assorted lighting still fooled the light meter of the DSLR, better with proper light meter to use in portrait or some other mode.

Gary,
The price of B& H is too expensive and I can get one with 1/2 price of their list.

Redline,
Yes, I know and tried all but want to learn more pretend one day we have to shoot in all manual and no light meter in the camera.
Other way, I would like to learn more experiences in lighting and able to make comparison with both in camera light meter & off camera light meter with the pics I'm going to take.

hmmm, like the sound of the 358. you can get it for 1/2 price?

well it still sounds like to need to control the "assorted" lighting in your 10x10 room to stop the confusing light reading your getting. i think your getting troubled by the source of lights casting incorrect colors in your shots rather than a metering problem. mixing fluro and flash/daylight on daylight based film/ccd?

Birddog114 wrote:Gary,

Yes, I know and tried all but want to learn more pretend one day we have to shoot in all manual and no light meter in the camera.
Other way, I would like to learn more experiences in lighting and able to make comparison with both in camera light meter & off camera light meter with the pics I'm going to take.

yes use a mf camera and you're there.

if you want to compare in-camera/ light meter you'll find that they would be the same in most cases except for those tricky situations i talked about.

redline wrote:well it still sounds like to need to control the "assorted" lighting in your 10x10 room to stop the confusing light reading your getting. i think your getting troubled by the source of lights casting incorrect colors in your shots rather than a metering problem. mixing fluro and flash/daylight on daylight based film/ccd?

redline,
That's one sort of but not in all, at some places I faced the uncontrolable lighting, fooled the on board meter, and spend time to correct with few difference shots, checked histogram etc...and I used a loaned ligh meter from a friend and it helped at the first shot without adjusting anything from the light meter reading.
I can see two difference skin tones from two difference source of light meters.

i suggest you pickup the 358 for the price you mention and have fun

redline wrote:i suggest you pickup the 358 for the price you mention and have fun

The L-558, US$400.00 shipped, while the 358 is around US$270.00 shipped, only one of deal.

didn't you say you could obtain a 358 for half the listed bh price 219usd?

redline wrote:didn't you say you could obtain a 358 for half the listed bh price 219usd?

redline,
I said I can get the L-558 at nearly half price of the B&H List before shipping cost, B&H listed it as over US$600.00. That why I don't want to look at the 358. cos price is not much difference and the L-558 has more features & top line than the 358.

a 558R or a 558C?

Birdy
I recently bought the Gossen DigiPro F from Adorama:

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?page=searchresults&searchinfo=gossen%20digipro%20f

I mainly wanted to be able to take incident light readings, and also compare flash & ambient light. So far, I have found it to be excellent.

It does not have a spot meter, but I find the spot meter in the D70 is OK for the times I need this sort of reading.

Hmmm, i asked this question of the forum myself, but "shoot RAW, and the histogram and bracketing" solution was possed as accurate enough to not warrant the use of a handmeter " dont waste your money , save it for better glass..."
- BUT its the incident vs reflective metering, multiple flash, exposure ratio calculation and better sensitivity advantge that keeps us coming back.
Sekonic 558 . hmmm i hear nothing but good things about it.

lejazzcat wrote:Hmmm, i asked this question of the forum myself, but "shoot RAW, and the histogram and bracketing" solution was possed as accurate enough to not warrant the use of a handmeter " dont waste your money , save it for better glass..."
- BUT its the incident vs reflective metering, multiple flash, exposure ratio calculation and better sensitivity advantge that keeps us coming back.
Sekonic 558 . hmmm i hear nothing but good things about it.

lejazzcat,
My advise! you're better leaving all the lust behind until you come back.
Otherwise, something has to go into the Pawn shop overthere

The 558 has been on my "wish" list for some time now.

Ive found my old nikon FA simply isnt metering scenes properly, and I would like to continue using my old AIS lenses.

Not helping is the fact the F6 and D2X both offer support for these AIS lenses if the lens details are entered. (Previously the last film body to support my AIS lenses was the F4)

Certainly when I buy (eventually) a linhof technorama 617S III pano camera ill need an external light meter.

All of it will fall into place... one day

JD

jdear,
What AI-S lens do you have?
The 558/R is a brilliant device and I'm looking to own it soon.

lenses include:

Nikon nikkor 15mm 1:3.5
Nikon nikkor 20mm 1:2.8 (62mm)
Nikon zoom-nikkor 28-85mm 1:3.5 - 4.5 (62mm)
Nikon zoom-nikkor 35-200mm 1:3.5 - 4.5 (62mm)
Nikon zoom-nikkor 100-300mm 1:5.6 (62mm)

nikkon TC-201 tele-convertor

love to hear your review on the 558 after having used it for a while...

JD

Not helping is the fact the F6 and D2X both offer support for these AIS lenses if the lens details are entered. (Previously the last film body to support my AIS lenses was the F4)

JD, I thought so too , but Birddog tells me the F5 could do it as well . yeah/no?
Ive hung onto my F4s for that very reason.

jdear wrote:lenses include:

Nikon nikkor 15mm 1:3.5
Nikon nikkor 20mm 1:2.8 (62mm)
Nikon zoom-nikkor 28-85mm 1:3.5 - 4.5 (62mm)
Nikon zoom-nikkor 35-200mm 1:3.5 - 4.5 (62mm)
Nikon zoom-nikkor 100-300mm 1:5.6 (62mm)

nikkon TC-201 tele-convertor

love to hear your review on the 558 after having used it for a while...

JD

Yes, first, I'll let you know about my impression of the 558.
Second I have the coupa of f.1.2 lenses

lejazzcat wrote:

Not helping is the fact the F6 and D2X both offer support for these AIS lenses if the lens details are entered. (Previously the last film body to support my AIS lenses was the F4)

JD, I thought so too , but Birddog tells me the F5 could do it as well . yeah/no?
Ive hung onto my F4s for that very reason.

Yes, F4/ F5/ F6/ D2h/ D2x can do well with AI-S lenses

F4...
Ai-type Nikkor lenses (including AI-S) supported:
* manual focusing with electronic rangefinder with maximum aperture faster than f/5.6
* a mode, m mode
* matrix, center and spot metering working

(according to f4 lens compatiblity chart)

F5...
from my understanding the F5 doesnt support AIS lenses like the F4s and the F6. ie,

*you dont get use of the metering system (3d matrix) but center and spot works
*Aperture Priority AE / manual Exposure

- just like if you stuck an AIS on the D70.

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/nikonfmount/f5compatchart.htm has something to say about it.

F6... AI-type nikkors are supported: (AI-S)
*electronic range finder (aid in manual focusing)
* A mode, M mode
* all metering modes
- colour matrix - focal length and maximum aperture entered in (the f6 can store as many as 10 lenses at a time)
- center weighted
- spot - exposure metering is locked to the center focus area (cannot select other focus areas)

not sure what the D2x has to say... havent seen a manual as yet.

JD

D2x supports AI-S lens:
Focus mode M (w/ electronic range finder) with maximum apeture of f.5.6 or faster.
Exposure mode:
- Not in P/S
- In A/M: Yes. If maximum apeture is specified using NON CPU lens data option in shooting menu, apeture value will be display in viewfinder and top control panel/
Metering system:
- 3D: NONE
- Color Matrix supports with option in shooting menu.
Other metering supports with using NON CPU LENS option in shooting menu.

Thanks JD and BD.
Very handy to know.

Birddog,
If you get it by the end of the month, get me one as well (L558), otherwise I'll wait until after the holidays. I find the metering on the D70 erratic. I shoot RAW but it'd be nice to get proper exposure for better quality.
Cheers,
Gerard

glamy wrote:Birddog,
If you get it by the end of the month, get me one as well (L558), otherwise I'll wait until after the holidays. I find the metering on the D70 erratic. I shoot RAW but it'd be nice to get proper exposure for better quality.
Cheers,
Gerard

I have it next week for you.

Birddog,
I e-mailed you,
Cheers,
Gerard

I have always used the hand held mainly in the studio and I think for time being that's the way it will stay even with the D70. I find it so much quicker for getting lighting ratios with the meter. I am using the Minolta 4 which I have had for a number of years and swear by it.

Regards
Steve B

Birddog before the D70 i had a Mamiya RB67 medium format camera fully manual

and i used a SPOT meter much like that one here http://www.adorama.com/PXDS.html

this coupled with some knowledge of the zone system and it a very powerful tool some even come with a zone label on them wich makes using the zone system even easier