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Hi there,

I don't feel like I'm getting the most out of my macro shots and would like some opinions and advice off you guys...

Below is a full frame macro shot that I took this afternoon...

DETAILS:

ISO 400
1/125
F20
Medium High Sharpening
180mm macro + 68mm of extension.



It looks ok when resized for web viewing but take a look at the 100% crop



Shouldn't things be a lot more detailed/sharp than that? In the viewfinder they seem to be perfectly sharp and infocus (I'm manually focusing)

The focus doesn't seem to be in the wrong place does it? I know macro is very hard to get right... but I would have expected that at least some of the shots come out ok. Every single shot I take is like this. They just don't seem right to me.

Can anyone tell me if I'm expecting too much, or if you think I'm doing something wrong?

Any helpful hints would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks very much

Paul

Thats probably caused by the slightest amount of camera shake. A tripod would help but having said that, it wouldnt be easy to get photos like that with a tripod

I already use a tripod.

If so then I would suggest that it is a focussing issue. With my eyesight I sometimes get results like that.

Perhaps try using a remote to trigger the shutter or the timer for a start to see if that is the cause of the problem.

Could the extension tubes be causing a problem at all?

My images are definately better without them but I don't know if that is due to the tubes themselves (which I thought shouldn't have any affect on image quality at all) or just the fact that it's greater magnification which shows any small errors even more.

Paul

Greater magnification means more precise focussing.

sirhc55 wrote:Greater magnification means more precise focussing.

Surely though just pure luck would give me at least a few images that are sharp! I can't see anywhere at all that is focused correctly on that image... if I got it a bit wrong shouldn't at least part of it be in focus?

There are several factors at play:

• Focussing - the higher the magnification the more this becomes critical. But as you say, at least SOME part of the scene should be in focus.
• Subject vibration - we're assuming your subject is stable.
• Camera vibration - you've said you're using a tripod, but there's more to it than that! With the flash out on a macro bracket and the camera way back on extension tubes you've got a fairly big rig balancing on the 'pod.

Vibration issues to consider:

• Using a timer or remote release should eliminate vibration introduced by yourself.
• The D70 doesn't give you mirror-prefire, so you should stay away from the "mid-slow" shutter speeds where vibration from the mirror will be an issue. At 1/125s I would expect this wouldn't be a factor.
  Does shooting with the timer on the D70 give you pre-fire?
• I gather the Wimberley plate of your lens is somehow attached to the Manfrotto "hex" plate which is then clamped to the top of your Manfrotto head. There are lots of points in this chain for vibration to fail to be damped, and I would suggest that your upcoming new head with integrated A-S clamp should be better. The cork surface on the hex plate often leaves the system with a very subtle wobble.

No clear answers there, just things for you to consider.

Jamie wrote:Perhaps try using a remote to trigger the shutter or the timer for a start to see if that is the cause of the problem.

I reckon Jamie might be onto it. I've found using the ML-L3 remote shutter trigger has improved my tripod results. If the tripod doesn't hold the camera really steady, you could be getting camera movement by depressing the shutter. On my first tripod attempts with a cheapo light aluminium tripod, the tripod was certainly flexing when pressing the shutter.

Then there is subject movement. Was there a wind blowing that could be moving the subject?

NikonUser wrote:Surely though just pure luck would give me at least a few images that are sharp!

Why would luck have any bearing on this? This surely and simp0ly comes back to technique, not luck.

You say that you're using a tripod; what type?

Make sure that you're also using a remote or the self-timer to trip the shutter, and then make sure that your focussing is spot on, which it isn't at the moment.

You might try to grab a newspaper, and try practising your focussing on that for starters.

Thanks for the hints guys...

I'm thinking it MUST be subject movement. I can get shots taken of still objects inside that look alright.

Either that or some VERY small tripod movement. The camera is VERY solidly strapped in.

I will try the remote option (though that could prove difficult with constantly moving subjects...I only have two hands).

Other than that I guess it's just keep on practicing! I just wish I had more time!

Paul

Paul

NikonUser wrote:I will try the remote option (though that could prove difficult with constantly moving subjects...I only have two hands).

Same here with the rest of us, but using the remote, you'll find that you'll only be needing 50% of that complement, and you should be well clear of any contact with the camera and/or tripod.

There are some good technique tips in John Shaw's Closeups in Nature. Highly recommended..

Nikonuser
I don't think camera shake is the culprit here...look carefully at the hairs...the width does not seem enlarged through movement. I think the loss of resolution is caused by diffraction. I noticed that your f/stop was f/20 and you used extension tubes. Try a few shots at f/11 and f/16 and I think you will see a large improvement in sharpness...but it will cost you a little DOF.

NikonUser wrote:I'm thinking it MUST be subject movement. I can get shots taken of still objects inside that look alright.

Maybe the fly was nervous !!!

leek wrote:

NikonUser wrote:I'm thinking it MUST be subject movement. I can get shots taken of still objects inside that look alright.

Maybe the fly was nervous !!!

Or maybe it was taking a leek(sic)?


Bob.

Matt. K wrote:Nikonuser
I don't think camera shake is the culprit here...look carefully at the hairs...the width does not seem enlarged through movement. I think the loss of resolution is caused by diffraction. I noticed that your f/stop was f/20 and you used extension tubes. Try a few shots at f/11 and f/16 and I think you will see a large improvement in sharpness...but it will cost you a little DOF.

I think you've hit the nail on the head there Matt!

It was WAAAAY too windy today to get any decent shots but the few that I did get were a lot better... I was using F11-16 today.

Thanks very much for that tip... wish I had known it sooner!!

Paul