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I took possession of some new toys today...

- SC29 Flash Cable
- 77mm Hoya close-up filter set for the 80-400VR
- Manfrotto 234 tilt head for my monopod

The flash cable seems great, with an additional AF assist light at the hotshoe end... and a tripod mounting for the flash unit at the other end of the cable... both AF-assist lamps work together to provide maximum illumination...

I was prompted to buy the close-up filters after seeing the excellent macro results that Kerry attained in a previous post... The +4 filter alone reduces the minimum focus distance from 2.5m to about 15cm... The AF system seems to find it very hard to focus and the VR makes worrying noises, but I've only tried it in very low light conditions so far - I look forward to giving it a proper test in daylight tomorrow...

The tilt-head on the monopod gives me the extra flexibility I was looking for - allowing me to tilt the head rather than maintain very unergonomic angles with the monopod...

Birddog will probably tell me off for not buying them through him, but I wanted to spare him some paperwork...

Congrats John on your new toys. I have used the SC29 for the past year and fiind it invaluable for off camera macro shots - you will enjoy

sirhc55 wrote:Congrats John on your new toys. I have used the SC29 for the past year and fiind it invaluable for off camera macro shots - you will enjoy

Yep... I think i've finally found a use for my crappy, squeaky Velbon tripod

Still wondering if I should go the SC-28 or the SC-29 for off camera flash for my nature photography. Can you turn it off if you don't want it on?

kipper wrote:Still wondering if I should go the SC-28 or the SC-29 for off camera flash for my nature photography. Can you turn it off if you don't want it on?

Yes

I'm excited for you John, I'm looking forward to seeing what shots you come up with, playing with your new toys.

The #234 makes shooting at other than horizontal a slight bit more possible than without one.

Methinks you've bought some macro accessories there Leek. The SC29 to increase your flash-subject distance, the closeup filter for 80-400 macros (which BTW severely reduces depth of field as well as the min focal distance).

Onyx wrote:Methinks you've bought some macro accessories there Leek. The SC29 to increase your flash-subject distance, the closeup filter for 80-400 macros (which BTW severely reduces depth of field as well as the min focal distance).

You might be right there Chi - on both counts... I'm starting to get used to 2mm depth of field
The SC-29 was more so that I could have complete flexibility in the positioning of the flash relative to the camera... I was finding that when using the hot-shoe, long lenses frequently cause an eclipse on my subject... The SC-29 will enable me to position the flash off to the side, thereby avoiding that problem...

Nice toys John!
I've also got the SC-29 lead for those tricky little macro shots with my reversed 50mm lens.
Great fun playing with shadows and bounced light

Congratulations on the new toys,

the SC-29 seems like THE PIECE OF KIT. Off camera shoe placement is always desirable, which allows you to be more creative with light source placement to get different lighting effects on your subject.

I got the the sc28 in a rush, it has a problem with AF illumination on the sb800. I am going to follow your example and get a SC29 quick smart!

Today i got my Benro C227 it rocks! reverable column and gitzo good looks!
and a RSS L bracket, BH55 still in somewhere in the atlantic ocean en route.

THANKYOU BIRDDOG!

leek wrote:Birddog will probably tell me off for not buying them through him, but I wanted to spare him some paperwork...

leek,
Buying from me or HKS or from somewhere are your wills, provided that you're happy with your purchase and acquisitions, it's the important part of your hobby.

wendellt wrote:Congratulations on the new toys,

the SC-29 seems like THE PIECE OF KIT. Off camera shoe placement is always desirable, which allows you to be more creative with light source placement to get different lighting effects on your subject.

I got the the sc28 in a rush, it has a problem with AF illumination on the sb800. I am going to follow your example and get a SC29 quick smart!

Today i got my Benro C227 it rocks! reverable column and gitzo good looks!
and a RSS L bracket, BH55 still in somewhere in the atlantic ocean en route.

THANKYOU BIRDDOG!

Wendellt,
The BH-55 is not too far away! though they wait to ship it for me with the first BH40-LR in their store, I'll use it as evaluation and showing products to members (I pay full price for it, no but or if), and hopefully we all get these heads no later than Monday 17/10/05, apart from the heads, more stuff in the box as:

- PCL-1 Omni-Pivot Package
- Pano Elements Package
- LC-A11 Package
and other plates + other toys + other lusts.

Yes, it's a big bills from RRS, nearly $3k.

Hope you're happy and enjoying the Benro C227, I have number of happy customers outside of this forum discharged their cash at full load for these legs and heads in the last few days, among them are wedding, nature photographers which I knew them in the past.

They did not hesitate to buy the copied Gitzo brands with fully Gitzo specs. but at 1/2 prices. Replacement parts will arrive in store soon, and they can be used with genuine Gitzo legs or vice versa.

I personally used the C328 with my D2x for the sunset & marina shooting at Nelson Bay last weekend with Stubbsy and huynhie, It's quite affordable for what it was built for, I love it also, can't tell the difference with my genuine Gitzo legs.

The longevity and reliability of the Benro are the answer from you in the field to test it out.

kipper wrote:Still wondering if I should go the SC-28 or the SC-29 for off camera flash for my nature photography. Can you turn it off if you don't want it on?

kipper,
Be careful, some flash brackets won't work with the SC-29 due to the flash arm obstructs the IR on the SC-29, especially with the RRS flash bracket.
No comment to others.

John,

All you need now is a macro bracket!.... It never ends

Ray

Jenno wrote:John,

All you need now is a macro bracket!.... It never ends

Ray

Already thinking about it...

Yeah birdy

I love the benro tripod it was affordable and that's my only concern right now, I am using the manfrotto hex plate and bogen ballhead with the benro, it's big and tall but it's sleek and sexy!

In melbourne i held the D2x and the 70-200VR with sb800 in hand with no support and after 6 hours straight of shooting the catwalk and now days after my arms and shoulders hurt a few people came up to me and said 'you sure you can handle that?' I really appreciate my tripod now!

wendellt wrote:Yeah birdy

I love the benro tripod it was affordable and that's my only concern right now, I am using the manfrotto hex plate and bogen ballhead with the benro, it's big and tall but it's sleek and sexy!

In melbourne i held the D2x and the 70-200VR with sb800 in hand with no support and after 6 hours straight of shooting the catwalk and now days after my arms and shoulders hurt a few people came up to me and said 'you sure you can handle that?' I really appreciate my tripod now!

Shooting catwalk or fashion show with tripod? No way sir!!!!!!!!
Unless you shoot the manequins or static displayed subjects.

That what the 70-200VR was designed for. Handholding and mobile and VR helps in this caes.

I shot with 70-200VR 8-10 hours continuously without any tripod or monopod and I liked the way I'm doing. I'm not young and full of energy like you

More to come:
Even if you have the tripod and RRS BH55, you won't be able to mount the 70-200VR or 80-400VR on the ballhead unless you have the lens plate or replacement foot for the 70-200VR (Arca Swiss type).

wendellt wrote:In melbourne i held the D2x and the 70-200VR with sb800 in hand with no support and after 6 hours straight of shooting the catwalk and now days after my arms and shoulders hurt

When I started carrying an EOS D30 with 100-400 IS, I did find my left forearm was somewhat sore. But that's just a conditioning thing, as it just doesn't happen now (although I do carry similar gear a lot, I do more formal exercise now than I did then too).

Leek, I was jealous of you yesterday as I was waiting for my own delivery. But today I'm no longer jealous.
I'm now the proud owner of a Gitzo 1348 (with Op/Tech leg wraps), 438 levelling base, Arca-Swiss B1 (2nd-hand), McClamp(Clamp), and a bunch of other odds and ends. Christmas in October!
Thanks to Jenno for the info on the McClamp: I was only aware of the Plamp before joining here!

How much is the SC-29?

Greg B wrote:How much is the SC-29?

In the bargain section under the lens lust, but no stock from HKG at this stage.

Speaking of toys, my Wimberley WH-100 arrived today, that's the one without the clamp. I'm getting an 80mm clamp for it from RRS and should be arriving in the next few weeks. The good thing was that it was shipped by UPS and arrived through customs, no holding for GST payment and it was a $465US item.

Thanh, ok will stick with the SC-28 as I've ordered the B91B. Might get the Wimberley Flash Bracket aswell next year sometime but if the SC-29 doesn't work with the SC-29 I don't want

HELP MY GITZO HAS BEEN CONSUMED!!!!

Very cool!

I'm planning on getting a Sidekick with my 500/4, but that won't be this year.

Well I'm getting an RRS 91B and decided to get a clamp from them. Anthony on NSN said he prefers the RRS clamps over the Wimberley. Something to do with them releasing faster than the Wimberleys. Maybe he's just used to older versions of Wimberley Clamps, I'm not sure.

Something I did just notice about the RRS LCF-14 that I have is that it's not as low profile as the Wimberley. I guess the gap on the LCF-14 is better for using as a grip. I heard the Wimberley you can't get fingers in between.

Yeah I was up deliberating over whether I should get the Sidekick or the fullhead. As I thought the BH55 and Sidekick would be great for landscapes + nature. But I heard there are slight differences in the movement between the two and the side mount worries me. I guess I'll just have to get a ballhead later on. Was thinking about a smaller ballhead but I'm guessing the BH55 is going to be the best option for small to large lenses.

kipper wrote:Well I'm getting an RRS 91B and decided to get a clamp from them. Anthony on NSN said he prefers the RRS clamps over the Wimberley. Something to do with them releasing faster than the Wimberleys. Maybe he's just used to older versions of Wimberley Clamps, I'm not sure.

Something I did just notice about the RRS LCF-14 that I have is that it's not as low profile as the Wimberley. I guess the gap on the LCF-14 is better for using as a grip. I heard the Wimberley you can't get fingers in between.

I do the same way, I didn't like the clamp from Wimberley or Black Widow, RRS clamp is still the best with quick releasing than other, I have both versions of Wimberley and BWG, soon will be gone to my Canon friends, I loan to them couple weeks now.

I have and use LCF-14 on my 200-400VR and 500 AF-S II, it's beauti by putting your hand under the barrel to carry or handholding it (200-400VR),
I'm again thinking of getting the 300VR with to use with TC for easy in transportation and walkaround in the backpack.

The 500 is so heavy and bulky for mobile, great glass! but only suitable for stationing. Will use it for some other purposes.

kipper,
I use the BH55 with sidekick and mount the 500 on it, worked well, no problems with sidemount and well balancing with the 500 mounted, no fuss, no if and no but.

But I still prefer to have and use the gimbal head with the 500/ 600, more nicer in movement and smooth than the sidekick + BH55.

Well there're many choices but then ending up with more $$$$ to discharge.

Congrats John on the new gear. It's always great getting new gear. I'm keen to see a few samples with the closeup lenses on the 80-400. I also, based on Kerry's excellent macro work, was about to buy the canon 77mm closeup lens. How much was the kit. I think the +4 would do me.
cheers
marco

Yep, the Sidekick is good if you're constantly changing but I don't see myself doing that at this stage.

Btw, is there any good ways to remove Wimberley or BH55 or M-20 without locking the head and twisting it off of the Gitzo? Strap Wrench? Or do you know of better ways? I just locked my M-20 as tight as I could and forced it off. However I didn't like doing that as I thought it'd be putting wear/strain on the tensioning parts of the head.

If you had the G1321 levelling base it has a lever which pulls down / releases the centre bolt, making it easy to attach/detach heads and get a solid attachment. In any case I would not be considering the use of a Wimberley head without a levelling base (G1321 or Manfrotto 438 depending on your requirements).

Do you have a strap wrench? I picked up one from Bunnings a couple of months ago.

I know the levelling base is a good thing to have but at this stage I'll pass on it.

kipper wrote:Yep, the Sidekick is good if you're constantly changing but I don't see myself doing that at this stage.

Btw, is there any good ways to remove Wimberley or BH55 or M-20 without locking the head and twisting it off of the Gitzo? Strap Wrench? Or do you know of better ways? I just locked my M-20 as tight as I could and forced it off. However I didn't like doing that as I thought it'd be putting wear/strain on the tensioning parts of the head.

Nothing else which I can see and help us not to lock the BH tight prior to remove it, I normally leave the BHs on the tripods (4 tripods/ 3 ballheads/ 2 gimbal heads) pack them in the large Gitzo tripod bag (GE-13P).

The heads which I often removed are the gimbal heads, no way you can pack it with the legs in the carry bag and it's the one thing I didn't like it much as I said, and only used it when I'm stationed.

DaveB wrote:If you had the G1321 levelling base it has a lever which pulls down / releases the centre bolt, making it easy to attach/detach heads and get a solid attachment. In any case I would not be considering the use of a Wimberley head without a levelling base (G1321 or Manfrotto 438 depending on your requirements).

Do you have a strap wrench? I picked up one from Bunnings a couple of months ago.

Add on the G1321 levelling base is overkill, It's damm heavy.
Imaging yourself: G3125 + G1321LVL + 500AF-S II then you need to hire an assistant to carry all for you!
I've seen a G1321 but not keen getting one of them for my shooting style, If I do need to use the LVL then I have other tripods as G1227 and few other.

Birddog, I know what you're talking about. I carried the Wimberley home on the bus and thought it weighed a fairbit. Put it on the tripod and was like. Omg this this thing is so heavy.....well it is compared to my old Markins ballhead. If I was packing the Wimberley in my bag, I'd take a small spirit level. Level out the tripod base and then put on the head, or just use the bubble level thats on the tripod. I'm sure when you're in hurry this method will slow you down but if you're setting up for the day for the planned shot than this should be fine.

Shrug, I also don't see one on Arthur Morrises setup in his book. Maybe he does now who knows.

kipper wrote:Birddog, I know what you're talking about. I carried the Wimberley home on the bus and thought it weighed a fairbit. Put it on the tripod and was like. Omg this this thing is so heavy.....well it is compared to my old Markins ballhead. If I was packing the Wimberley in my bag, I'd take a small spirit level. Level out the tripod base and then put on the head, or just use the bubble level thats on the tripod. I'm sure when you're in hurry this method will slow you down but if you're setting up for the day for the planned shot than this should be fine.

Shrug, I also don't see one on Arthur Morrises setup in his book. Maybe he does now who knows.

Use the bubble level spirit on the hotshoe of the camera is the quickest way which I found, forget about the level of the tripod and other, leveling a tripod in difference terrain is a must not.

Yes, once you have the Wimberley Gimbal head + your G1325 + The 500 AF-S + other gear, you may throw the G1321 in the bin.

I only have the Wimberley or BWG when I can get my truck closed to the shooting site, otherwise I travel light.
It took me more than 5 min. to level the legs and 30 sec. on the hot shoe.

Birddog114 wrote:Use the bubble level spirit on the hotshoe of the camera is the quickest way which I found, forget about the level of the tripod and other, leveling a tripod in difference terrain is a must not.

If you're going to use a gimbal head it's important to get the base levelled so that the orientation doesn't change as you pan.
Getting the camera level in the mount is important too, but for different reasons.

DaveB wrote:

Birddog114 wrote:Use the bubble level spirit on the hotshoe of the camera is the quickest way which I found, forget about the level of the tripod and other, leveling a tripod in difference terrain is a must not.

If you're going to use a gimbal head it's important to get the base levelled so that the orientation doesn't change as you pan.
Getting the camera level in the mount is important too, but for different reasons.

My experiences are using the bubble level on the hotshoe as mentioned.
Use or have the G1321 is great but adding more weight to the gears which you carry with you and it's not neccessary IMHO.
I use Wimberley Gimbal head mounted straight onto the G1325 without the levelling base, those are more than enough weight for me to struggle the day long trekking.
Everyone who owns these gears all want to travelling as light as they can, I didn't see the benefits of getting the G1321.
I knew other member on this board has the G1348 + G1321, Glen may contribute what are the weight of the combo like.

I agree if you want to photograph a sequence of panned shots than a decent means of levelling the head is important. I'm not really planning that at this stage and will be setting up the head just using the bubble level in the base of the tripod. I might get Birddy to get me a hotshoe level aswell as they can be quite useful if you hit the mud.[/code]

marcotrov wrote:Congrats John on the new gear. It's always great getting new gear. I'm keen to see a few samples with the closeup lenses on the 80-400. I also, based on Kerry's excellent macro work, was about to buy the canon 77mm closeup lens. How much was the kit. I think the +4 would do me.
cheers
marco

$120 for the set of 3...
I'm finding that the +4 is very difficult to use as you have to get within 20cm and focussing is very difficult because of the distortion... You might want to try the +2

Whoa John - $40 difference for 10mm in diameter? I paid $78 for the 67mm set.

Just posted a photo taken with the 50mm 1.4 and the +4 cuf, <a href=http://www.dslrusers.com/viewtopic.php?p=119556#119556>here</a>, and PMed you about next week.

Manta wrote:Whoa John - $40 difference for 10mm in diameter? I paid $78 for the 67mm set.

Just posted a photo taken with the 50mm 1.4 and the +4 cuf: "Tight Depth of Field" and PMed you about next week.

Hah... donta maka me laugh - tight depth of field indeed...
We figured out that we were working with 0.5mm DOF for our match shots today Beat that!!!

PM'd you back about next week... Looking forward to meeting up with you...

kipper,

Your set up is looking good, just waiting for the 'RRS' clamp and 500mm f/4 now.

Kipper, Birddy, I would agree the the 1321 makes the combo heavy, feels like it doubles the weight of the Gitzo. Works very well and really quick to set up, but I would not bother with one for a Wimberly head. How long till your 500mm arrives Kipper?

Glen wrote:Kipper, Birddy, I would agree the the 1321 makes the combo heavy, feels like it doubles the weight of the Gitzo. Works very well and really quick to set up, but I would not bother with one for a Wimberly head. How long till your 500mm arrives Kipper?

Glen,
His 500mm is soon arriving, just waiting for the clearance of landing slot and parking in the hangar

Yes, correct! who's going to towing the G1321 in the field with the Wimberley + 500 + G1325 + ton of gears? Definitely not me!