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Using 400D with 70mm 2.8 L

You can use Exif Reader to get more info if you want.

Hi Xplosv,

Welcome to the forum.

I hope you have read the FAQ and the red lettering on the top of this page about stating a meaningful location on your profile.

I think I like the first one better [shows some activity] because the expression doesn't interest me in the second one. Also watch that white balance.

Hope to see more from you.

I would def watch that white balance, but you have done will with the exposure...natural light or was there some flash used?

thanks guys,

Can you tell me more on how I should correct the WB with these pics?

There is a white table light shining from the right and a small amount of flash fire to get the bounce (upward), as the room a bit dark.

The skin tone appears a bit too red/pink and there is a slight pink tinge on the shoes and the white soft toy in the background so maybe make the image a bit cooler (more blue). IF you have shot RAW you can play with the different WB settings until you find one that looks right to you (i would try to get the skin tones right). Hope this helps

got cha, thanks

I shot with RAW and will play it further.

aim54x wrote:The skin tone appears a bit too red/pink and there is a slight pink tinge on the shoes and the white soft toy in the background so maybe make the image a bit cooler (more blue). IF you have shot RAW you can play with the different WB settings until you find one that looks right to you (i would try to get the skin tones right). Hope this helps

If you use ACR, you can press "i" for the white point dropper and click on the lightest point of his shoe, assuming the shoe is actually white. This should correct the overall white balance or get it pretty close. Given both shots have the same light, you can open both (or more, if you have more) in ACR, make sure they are all chosen (synchronised, I believe is the term used), and use the above process on the first photo. This should correct all.

thanks for your reply Patrick, helpful.

Can you tell me what "ACR" stand for?

I do a similar thing on Photo Shop, picking the white to create white balance.

I am pretty sure that Patrick meant Adobe Camera Raw when he says ACR....but I am not 100%. I use Nikon Capture NX2 so I set a white point and a black point, works a treat!

Hes such a cutie! the colour looks so vibrant

thanks Aim54x and Chasem.

regarding Adobe Camera Raw I will look into it.

My lightroom is miss behaving for some reason,
i made and saved a preset,
then I apply to an image it seem to be fine.
once i started to work on another picture, then come back to the same edited picture the color turn all yellowish.

Ahem, yes, I meant Adobe Camera Raw, in complete ignorance of my rant of a few weeks ago about people using initials instead of names! And yes, you can use the same approach in Photoshop, although I believe you need to define your white point (from memory, recalling the Scott Kelby book in which I read it).

Cool thanks.

Adobe Camera Raw sound like an easier program to use.

For photochop,

You can open a curves adjustment layer and then set black and white balance from the eavesdroppers. Then change the layer blending to luminosity.

Good work. Takes a lot of patience with the little ones. I like the first one.
Alex

a dumb question.

If I were to correct the WB for this 2 pics, it will make the picture more cooler.

How would you correct the WB and still make the picture feel warmer effect?

Reschsmooth wrote:Ahem, yes, I meant Adobe Camera Raw, in complete ignorance of my rant of a few weeks ago about people using initials instead of names!

Busted!

XPLOSV wrote:a dumb question.

If I were to correct the WB for this 2 pics, it will make the picture more cooler.

How would you correct the WB and still make the picture feel warmer effect?

That's not quite the correct question.

Adjusting the wb should alter the underlying basis under which the images were made, so that whites look white, rather than pink, or blue. By applying a specific colour temperature as a white balance setting, you have a virtually unlimited choice of wb settings that you may choose from.

My in-camera wb settings are never the default values as deemed appropriate by the manufacturer, but are modified settings, adjusted to suit how I wish the images to come out.

The first step is to, wherever possible, ditch auto wb whenever you're shooting with a known light source. This is because it presumes that every image will be shot under different lighting conditions, and it recalculates the wb value for each image that you shoot, based upon the content of the subject of each of those images. Thus, using awb, if you shoot something that's pink, it will adjust one way, and then if you shoot something blue, it will adjust in a different manner. The reality of your shoot is that, if your light source is constant, as it would be using studio flash, then your wb too should be constant, and not change between images.

But to set your in-camera wb, you need to shoot some images, and then review them on a calibrated monitor, adjusting for each image till you get your desired result. You can't do this while chimping, because your LCD is uncalibrated. For the same reason, you cannot just look at the image on the LCD to determine correct exposure: learn to use the histogram for exposure assessments.

hth (for Patrick).

gstark thanks you a big bunch for your explanation.
It help a lot.