I was reading this manual at work yesterday - got upto page 102 of 220-something.
Which shows how much of a nerd I am I suppose... it's shifted my perspective of obtaining it - it's no longer a matter of 'if' but a 'when' I should purchase it. I was previously reluctant, due to not wanting to throw more money away - compared to quality lenses, digital bodies makes a very poor 'investment' in this context... But featurewise - it's likely to be the last body I'll ever need. If longevity/reliability issues don't hit me in the medium/long term as my D70 did, IMHO it'll be the one to see me through until the next decade.
Very customisable - 4 banks for saving preference settings (preset WB, image parmeters, etc), dedicated buttons for everything likely to be used for shooting, FV lock indicator, ISO in viewfinder, and the urgent "you are about to make an idiot's mistake" indicator overlay in viewfinder are just some of the useful features I've gleamed from the first part of the manual.