Small Pics into Poster Size

Those nice to know things about your DSLR will be found here. How to do this, and why you probably should not do that.

Moderators: Greg B, Nnnnsic, Geoff, Glen, gstark, Moderators

Forum rules
Please ensure that you have a meaningful location included in your profile. Please refer to the FAQ for details of what "meaningful" is. Please also check the portal page for more information on this.

Small Pics into Poster Size

Postby SoCal Steve on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:04 am

Here's another little tip from Photoshop Guru Scott Kelby. I have no idea why it works, neither does he, but it does!

It seems that when you increase the size of an image in 10% steps it doesn't seem to soften or blur the image. Weird, huh?!

With Resample Image Turned On to Bicubic
Go to Image > Document Size > Percent >110%
Repeat until you get up to the final size you want.

Scott suggests making this into a PS action to make repetitions easier.

Enjoy.

(Thanks to johndec for pointing out my resample omission.)
Last edited by SoCal Steve on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
SoCal Steve
Senior Member
 
Posts: 500
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 6:25 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Postby JordanP on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:07 am

Thanks - definitley worth a try

Cheers,
Craig
User avatar
JordanP
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1050
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2004 8:52 pm
Location: Lismore, NSW

Re: Small Pics into Poster Size

Postby johndec on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:18 am

SoCal Steve wrote:Here's another little tip from Photoshop Guru Scott Kelby. I have no idea why it works, neither does he, but it does!

It seems that when you increase the size of an image in 10% steps it doesn't seem to soften or blur the image. Weird, huh?!

Go to Image > Document Size > Percent >110%
Repeat until you get up to the final size you want.

Scott suggests making this into a PS action to make repetitions easier.

Enjoy.


He also mentions that you have to switch the "Resample Image" checkbox to Bicubic Smoother. Most important....
User avatar
johndec
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1327
Joined: Mon Dec 06, 2004 11:24 pm
Location: Sans Souci, Sydney...D200....

Postby SoCal Steve on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:23 am

Oops! a very important note. Many humble thanks for adding that. :oops:
User avatar
SoCal Steve
Senior Member
 
Posts: 500
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 6:25 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Postby sirhc55 on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:41 am

This method has been around for some time but it should be done in LAB mode on the lightness channel for the best results. It is also not recommended for pics with straight lines :wink:
Chris
--------------------------------
I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
User avatar
sirhc55
Key Member
 
Posts: 12930
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:57 pm
Location: Port Macquarie - Olympus EM-10

Postby JordanP on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:45 am

Sorry for the ignorange Chris ... but what is LAB mode?
Craig
User avatar
JordanP
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1050
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2004 8:52 pm
Location: Lismore, NSW

Postby sirhc55 on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:51 am

JordanP wrote:Sorry for the ignorange Chris ... but what is LAB mode?


LAB (in PS) is a 3 channel mode developed to achieve consistency amongst various devices including monitors and printers.

When you convert to LAB through mode-LAB on the menu bar you are presented with a channel representing lightness, a channel for green thro’ red and another for blue thro’yellow.

Basically what it gives you is greater control over luminosity and colour independent of each other giving more refined editing possibilities.
Chris
--------------------------------
I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
User avatar
sirhc55
Key Member
 
Posts: 12930
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:57 pm
Location: Port Macquarie - Olympus EM-10

Postby JordanP on Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:54 am

cheers - I'll have a play. (love this forum)
Craig
User avatar
JordanP
Senior Member
 
Posts: 1050
Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2004 8:52 pm
Location: Lismore, NSW

Postby SoCal Steve on Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:17 am

I think "Bicubic Sharper" works better for moderate size increases.
Might be too much for lots of multiples. Maybe a combination of Bicubic, Bicubic Smoothing and Bicubic Sharper would be worth trying.

Photoshop CS has these options. Can't remember if PS 7 did.
User avatar
SoCal Steve
Senior Member
 
Posts: 500
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 6:25 pm
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Postby sirhc55 on Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:20 am

I used this method from 2000 through 2004 with the D1 which had a 2.7Mp sensor - that’s what I love about the D70, a bigger sensor.

But even with the D70 I have had to increase pic sizes to over 100Mb and to do this I use pxl SmartScale - very fast over the 10% increase method.
Chris
--------------------------------
I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
User avatar
sirhc55
Key Member
 
Posts: 12930
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:57 pm
Location: Port Macquarie - Olympus EM-10

Postby Hybrid on Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:18 pm

The bicubic sharper/smoother option is only in PSCS I think. The sharper option is for downsizing usually while the smoother is for upsizing.

There's another tool for doing this sort of thing called Genuine Fractals (http://www.lizardtech.com/products/gf/) - I haven't tried it but it looks interesting.

Cheers,

Stephen
User avatar
Hybrid
Member
 
Posts: 115
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:44 pm
Location: Bundaberg, Queensland

Postby sirhc55 on Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:53 pm

Hybrid wrote:The bicubic sharper/smoother option is only in PSCS I think. The sharper option is for downsizing usually while the smoother is for upsizing.

There's another tool for doing this sort of thing called Genuine Fractals (http://www.lizardtech.com/products/gf/) - I haven't tried it but it looks interesting.

Cheers,

Stephen


Stephen - I use both PixelScale and Genuine Fractals in PS7 and PSCS. The only problem with Genuine Fractals is that it save the image as a .stn file separate to the original file. You then have to open this file through PS whereas PixelScale makes the conversion in one step within PS.
Chris
--------------------------------
I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
User avatar
sirhc55
Key Member
 
Posts: 12930
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:57 pm
Location: Port Macquarie - Olympus EM-10

Postby Hybrid on Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:57 pm

sirhc55 wrote:Stephen - I use both PixelScale and Genuine Fractals in PS7 and PSCS. The only problem with Genuine Fractals is that it save the image as a .stn file separate to the original file. You then have to open this file through PS whereas PixelScale makes the conversion in one step within PS.


Thanks Chris - I'll make sure I give PixelScale a go when I need to do something like this. Do you notice any other differences between the 2? I would assume the output quality is very similar?

Cheers,

Stephen
User avatar
Hybrid
Member
 
Posts: 115
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2004 11:44 pm
Location: Bundaberg, Queensland

Postby sirhc55 on Sun Mar 06, 2005 6:14 pm

Stephen - I don’t think you would be able to pick the difference - they are both excellent and as I stated earlier in this thread I often have to take images up to 100Mb+ with no problems
Chris
--------------------------------
I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
User avatar
sirhc55
Key Member
 
Posts: 12930
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:57 pm
Location: Port Macquarie - Olympus EM-10


Return to Tips and tricks