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Photographing serviced apartmentsHi, again, I don't know what I got myself into, but I've been asked to photograph serviced apartments in Melbourne this coming Saturday. I've never done anything like this and was wondering if someone can offer some advice to me. They need some photos for their website, specifically reception area photos and some apartments.
My current kit consists of: - D70 - kit lens - sb 800 - Nikkor AF 28 mm 2.8f - Nikkor 50 mm f1.4 - Nikkor 80-200 f 4.5-5.6 (useless for this job, I guess) - a Manfrotto tripod Please help me with any suggestions. Thank you Alex
Hi Alex,
I'd suggest you do a reckie b4 hand to see what available light or lack off you have. In the past for reception area's I've had to use up to 3kW of lighting. Mark
This old thread may be of some help to you...
Cheers, John
Leek@Flickr | Leek@RedBubble | Leek@DeviantArt D700; D200; Tokina 12-24; Nikkor 50mm f1.4,18-70mm,85mm f1.8, 105mm,80-400VR, SB-800s; G1227LVL; RRS BH-55; Feisol 1401
Alex, I think John's link is very helpful, would also suggest taking your tripod and remote using available light unless you have a few SB800s, dont worry how slow the shutter speed is. If you could borrow a wide angle lens it could make your life easier, eg a 12-24 or 10-20
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Thank You
I knew a photographer who used to take photos in furniture showrooms for use in catalogues. He used to put the camera on a tripod, Set it on "B" at the smallest possible aperture then quickly walk around the room with a flash in his hand and fire it off all over the place making sure not to stop moving.
The results were quite good. __________
Phillip **Nikon D7000**
A very interesting idea, Phillip. Might give it a try. Alex
I would go with Glenn’s suggestion on a 12-24mm. I have shot many apartments and a wide angle is the trick. In advertising developers like a photograph to show that there is plenty of room as most people react to space.
Chris
-------------------------------- I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
If you can't get your hands on a 12-24, but have a tripod, then you may want to try a few panorama shots. This can duplicate and even surpass the effect of the 12-24. That's the method used in the article I posted above. Cheers, John
Leek@Flickr | Leek@RedBubble | Leek@DeviantArt D700; D200; Tokina 12-24; Nikkor 50mm f1.4,18-70mm,85mm f1.8, 105mm,80-400VR, SB-800s; G1227LVL; RRS BH-55; Feisol 1401
Good idea, but be careful to make sure you shoot around the nodal point of your lens. It doesn't matter as much for infinite distance landscapes, but becomes a big issue with anything that has foreground elements. - Rog
I agree that doing a pano will produce far better results than a wide angle lens, if done correctly. As already stated the camera/lens combo needs to be rotated around the nodal point of the lens, otherwise you just can't stitch the images properly, especially in the close quarters of a room.
I did the pano below by using full manual mode and firing the flash once to fill in any shadows. Sorry about the size (170kb), but it's the only one I have. Here Canon 1D III
I was selling my place recently and one thing that the photographer did (he used a Canon MkII with a 12mm lens) was really pump up the colour saturation and bump up the exposure. It looked a little strange to me because there colours were not true but everyone who looked at the shots on the web thought the place looked fantastic (and it really was quite a dump).
Another architectual trick is to hose down outside areas and plants before you shoot so pavement etc has a damp look. Water always makes things look a bit better and fresher. Use you flash inside so that window are not blown highlights. Regards
Jonesy
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