Possible shoot help.

[Raskill]

Ahoy folks,

Just need to throw an idea around and get some thoughts.

I may have a job coming up to photograph a car driving on a race circuit.

What I am planning on is to shoot from the back of a moving car, back towards the subject car. (Don't know how legal this will be, but it's okay, I know a cop ) The track surface is uber smooth and flawless, but I need to have a shutter speed that will allow for background blur, while keeping the subject vehicle sharp.

Should I try to get a 70-200 VR for such a job? Would 'active' VR be what I'm looking for? Does the 24-120 VR have 'active' VR for some close wide shots?

Am I making sense? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cheers.

[bwhinnen]

I've seen anywhere from 1/50th to 1/125th used from professionals.

I'd give it a go and see how you go with those and see whether you need VR or not. If you can keep a constant pace between the cars then VR would be handy in active mode, otherwise it may not give the results you want

The photos I've seen have all used something along the lines of a 28-70 lens by the looks of the focal length.

Cheers
Brett

[Raskill]

Cheers mate. I forgot to mention that most of the shots will be 'head on' images. I was thinking that active VR would assist with the small amounts of verticall movement at the slower shutter speeds.

[Oz_Beachside]

you could also do some tests, at a variety of vehicle speeds, since you need the relative speed difference between the cars to be small so you can get it sharp image, but the slow vehicle speed might make for a clearer shot, more time to frame etc... (of course at the cost of losing the visual impact of the physics of a car at high speed).

you might be able to find a happy medium and not need the VR at all...

[PiroStitch]

Use VR and don't forget you can fudge speed by using a slower shutter speed and while the cars aren't travelling as fast. Would probably be better from a OH&S point of view as well.

If it's going to be in the day, consider getting some ND filters if you can't put the shutter speed down to say 1/30, min. aperture (f22) and min ISO without blowing the exposure out.

That MTB racing pic of mine, the guy wasn't going that fast. I just managed to accentuate the illusion that he was

[Antsl]

Cheers mate. I forgot to mention that most of the shots will be 'head on' images. I was thinking that active VR would assist with the small amounts of verticall movement at the slower shutter speeds.

Hi Raskill...

If you are trying to achieve blur in an image you need to have at least one element of the image moving across the frame to create the movement. With a "head-on" image, particularly with a long lens you are not going to get much blur no matter what shutter speed you use.

As an example, think of yourself walking along backwards along the street looking at someone who is following you... even after several metres there will be no major difference in the background. Now look at the scenery to the immediate sides of you or below you as you cover a similar distance... you will notice quiet a lot of difference.

To get any worthwhile effect from this head on image you would be better to borrow a ute, lay on the back tray and shoot the vehicle head on with a wideangle as it gets close. By including foreground (track) you will get blur, particularly if you shoot as you go over track markings on the grid.

hope this is a help. Ants

[gstark]

Hi Allan,

Brett has mentioned one important point: as your vehicle will be moving as a similar speed to the subject vehicle, there will be relatively little speed differential between the vehicles, and thus achieving a high level of apparent sharpness should be a fairly easy target.

Antsl has hit upon the other vital point: shooting from head on leaves little scope for apparent movement within the image. In this realm, you may need to consider some creative options ...

A wider angle lens will permit more background to be included in the image; with a slow-ish shutter speed, this can impart the feelings of movement and speed.

A lower angle of view of your subject (closer to the road surface) can also help with this: the lower angle just "looks" faster but by being closer to the road, you will have a relatively quicker velocity over that surface, which can be imparted into your images.

I refuse to be drawn into the OH&S issues relating to shooting from a low angle from within a moving vehicle, but might I suggest that a remote plus a couple of Manfrotto Super Clamps may soon become your best friends?

[Kyle]

24-120vr does not have multi mode VR, however i've used it many a time for panning and the such and it's worked very well for me, so I think it will be of good use to you here.


Have a good read of this thread my friend, it will bring you some good wisdom! http://community.automotivephoto.net/fo ... php?t=1088
Title is 'how to improve my rolling shots...

If you want, I might be able to come out on a weekend and hang round like a bad smell for this, up to you

One more great example by john thawley: http://community.automotivephoto.net/fo ... 1180046324

[Raskill]

Thanks for the great input folks.

I'll be shooting from the rear of a ute, laying down. I will be using a 24mm focal length, so will be fairly close to the subject car. The circuit has advertising on most on the walls, so between the blurred road surface and sponsor logos I should be able to get a decent sensation of speed.

I'm still waiting to hear back if this is a go or no go, so I don't know when (if) it'll go ahead. That being said, I'm keen to give it a shot regardless.

Now to choose between a Nissan GTR or a 2007 Clubsport....

[Kyle]

Do both cars punk!

Can you get access (where I wont get booked lol) to the track to do some more of these style shots sometime? I'd love to bring a few friends up with attractive cars and give it a go

[Raskill]

Probably could do both cars, give the owners large images to get printed at their expense.

I'll have to do it on the track. There are no 'off access' areas on the circuit that have good backgrounds. I figure across Skyline and Pit Straight are the best possiblities, also maybe Forest Elbow.

Thanks for that link by the way Kyle.

[Kyle]

Skyline across the skyline...

Is the skyline a silver r32 that competes in the hillclimb events you shoot?

I love the automotive potatoe forums, but they have little time for event photos posted by aussies.. I posted 3 threads and got crap all response...

[bwhinnen]

Skyline across the skyline...

Is the skyline a silver r32 that competes in the hillclimb events you shoot?

I love the automotive potatoe forums, but they have little time for event photos posted by aussies.. I posted 3 threads and got crap all response...

There is some great stuff there, thanks for the links.

Doesn't matter where you post them Kyle, they seem to end that way anyway, I think most people like to look at them

[team piggy]

I would also suggest (depending on speed involved) that you pop out and hire yourself a full body harness (Similar to what people wear when working on ladders/scaffolds scissor lifts etc)
http://www.accessunlimited.com.au/i/products/full_body_harness_AB101AU.pdf

Attach this to the ute/trailer tiedowns in a couple points just to be sure, Dont leave much in the way of movement though.

Kennards and hire places have these.