Genuine vs Non Genuine batteries

[jase80]

Hi Guys,

New here but looks like a lot of knowledge to be gained.

On the subject of non genuine batteries, does anyone have views on their length of life compared to genuine units? Anyone have any horror stories?

Jason

[soarer]

Genuine batteries are the best and safest bet. they don't cost that much compared to how much the camera cost.

[Alpha_7]

I've had non genuine for both my d70 and d200, and they might take 50 less shots, but other then that I have not had an issue.
In fact on the weekend at the F1, I had one of my geniune EN-EL3s just kick the bucket and it less then 2 years old, and not over worked (or charged). I haven't had any third party ones fail.

[ozonejunkie]

I have owned about 4 non genuine batteries for my 300D / 30D, and never had a single problem with any of them! *touch wood*

They don't last as long as the genuine Canon ones do, but for $20 or so I reckon they are great value. Proably 80-90% of the capacity, 25% of the price.

Tristan

[aim54x]

I ran 2 aftermarket EN-EL9's in my D40x when I had it, and found that they worked quite well and probably gave me 80% of the number of shots my genuine one did, but then again I bought 2 batteries for $33 shipped to my door.

I have not gotten any aftermarket batteries for my D300 but am considering getting a Phottix Kosmo device (an EN-EL4a replacement with built-in BL-3 and charger).

I would say weigh it up in your mind, if you want the security of the genuine part, then do so, if you think you will not notice the difference then go with the cheaper (substantially) aftermarket.

[paulmac]

Probably 80-90% of the capacity, 25% of the price.

My Phottix version looks and feels just like the Canon original.

[jase80]

Thanks for the responses guys.

Really appreciate it

[asho]

I have had mixed results from non genuine batteries.

My Nikon D50 non genuine battery works a treat even after 2 years.

At work we have a Sony Handycam, cant remember the model but lots of the sony cameras have the same battery. Well we go through one every 12 months and don't use it a lot. The last 2 we have bought haven't lasted a month - so we have bought a new genuine one.

[Pa]

i've had my d50 for about 4 years and a generic battery almost as long...800 photos in a day no problem.

[jdear]

I bought a non-genuine BP511 for my old canon 30D going back and it was the same shape, size etc, except it gets stuck in the camera. It doesn't eject. The only way I can get it out is to use a sharp knife! I won't buy non-genuine again.

[Glen]

Interesting thread here, we are comparing a brand of battery, Nikon or Canon, with every other battery made in the world in that size! It is a bit like comparing a Commodore with a Ferrari and and a Kia, one will be faster and one cheaper. In reality, very little has been gained by this thread as no one has even stated the non genuine brand names they have used. So now we are saying "I drove a faster, better, cheaper, more expensive car previously".

Jase, I have used genuine and non genuine batteries. I have used Phottix brand compatible batteries in my D70 and found them every bit as good as the original. I also used an unbranded but claimed to be EN EL3e in my D300 which didn't work, though it works in my D70. I put that down to badge engineering, where the manufacturer just updated the badge without putting the electronic controls in. So in summary, I have found the Phottix brand to be good (probably the only one I remember due to the owners association with this forum) and the unbranded not really acceptable. Sorry no horror stories as per your request, but these are lithium ion batteries and care should be exercised with both original or non original Li ion batterries. What original battery are you comparing non originals with?

[aim54x]

In reality, very little has been gained by this thread as no one has even stated the non genuine brand names they have used. So now we are saying "I drove a faster, better, cheaper, more expensive car previously".

Very good point, I would quote the brand, but since I gave away the batteries when I sold my D40x I dont remember the brand. It does seem that the INCA/Master Instruments branded stuff that I have come across whilst working in a camera store is quite reliable, and it also sounds like the Phottix stuff is good as well.

We may get some Phottix NB-2L's for my partner's 400D in the future, and I am still contemplating that Kosmo (EN-EL4a + BL-3 replacement) for my D300.

If anyone can quote the brands they have used, it would make this thread much more helpful.

[Yi-P]

What camera do you have?

If you use anything below the big pro camera range (D2, D3 or 1D/s in the canon), you can just go with 3rd party batteries, I used couple of them and none of them failed me (on a D70).

If it is not your case, then you might just buy genuine battery, they are expensive for some reason of its design.
The D2x/D3 battery -- EN-EL4 is just another piece of smart electronics, not just a battery.
Here is an interesting reading:
http://www.vinland.com/Battery-EN-EL4.html

[Chaase]

We may get some Phottix NB-2L's for my partner's 400D in the future,

Also check out,
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170259327407&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:AU:11
Got one from Poon last week and I am very happy with it, $31 + $20 postage you cant go wrong.
Google some reviews on them they get a great rap.

Bruce

[mickeyjuice]

On the subject of non genuine batteries, does anyone have views on their length of life compared to genuine units?

I've had a few different 3rd party BP511s for my 10D and now 40D, and can't distinguish them from the genuines I've got.

[Glen]

Yip useful thread you have linked to. He didn't state that the electronics are also designed to prevent overdischarge, Li ion such as the 18650 in the EN EL4 (or the two 18500 in an EN EL3) are designed to have a nominal charge of 3.7V but fresh off the charger can be 4.2V, whilst they should never be discharged below 2.75V. The electronics would probably also balance the charging.

[team piggy]

I am a genuine battery convert after wasting $$$ and time having the phottix and other Non gen brands fail on me and leave me in a situation more than once I didnt like being in.....

I gave away and sold off all my non batts and replaced with Gen-yoo-ine only.. Lesson well and truly learnt.

[jase80]

Wow lots of good reading there. Thanks again guys.

Glen, im just starting out in digital so no specific brand came to mind, it was more of a curiosity thing than anything. I think i came across the odd site when i was researching gear that advertised supposed genuine batteries or at least genuine model numbers, at ridiculously cheap prices.

I'm heading overseas at the end of the year so i think ill pick up a Phottix battery and give it a try as a backup. Sounds like they have a decent rep.

jase

[team piggy]

Just make sure you have a backup for your backup One of mine let me down in that situation O/Seas... Missed 2 days of shooting as I couldnt recharge the genuine...

[gstark]

One other option that's not yet been canvassed in this thread is the use of a battery grip.

If your camera supports this feature, then that may be another option. For instance, on the D300/D700, the optional grip lets you use either a standard D300/D700 battery (same battery that's in the D100/D200/D70 and several other models, so it's a very common one now), or the battery from the D2/D3 series, or a bank of AAs. This adds quite a bit of flexibility to your choices, plus a lot more battery power to your camera.

And while the genuine Nikon grip costs about PP300, the Phottix one costs about one third the price. There are similar options with equal practicality in the Canon realm.

[jase80]

I pretty sure ill be grabbing a battery grip for the trip just to keep the spare battery on the camera and avoid losing it. These will all be December purchases though, once the wallet has stopped smoking from the D90 kit.

[DaveB]

I've used many BP-511 and NB-2LH (Canon) clones over the years. Some die sooner than "the real thing", many don't.

On D70s I've used one EN-EL3, one EN-EL3a, and two different clone EL3s. Both the clone batteries (different brands) gave me problems on various D70 and D70s bodies. Often the camera would freeze up while taking a photo: the mirror would flip up, the camera would lock up with an error, and the mirror would stay half-up. After a power-cycle, the next press of the shutter would reset the mirror, and the following one would lock it up again. At first I thought the bodies had faults (these were cameras I was doing or was about to do IR conversions on).
After buying an EN-EL3a, all those problems disappeared.

So I'm a bit "gun-shy" about clones of Nikon DSLR batteries, although I've been happy with clones of Canon batteries.

[gesteer]

In relation to the MB-D10, can anyone provide some clarification? I understand that this grip uses one battery in the camera body and one in the grip itself, so does the user need to remove the grip each time they wish to charge the battery in the body iteself? This is something I like about the MB-D200 grip - you could keep shooting and replace the batteries independently (and without having to remove the grip).

Any clarification would be appreciated.

G

[aim54x]

In relation to the MB-D10, can anyone provide some clarification? I understand that this grip uses one battery in the camera body and one in the grip itself, so does the user need to remove the grip each time they wish to charge the battery in the body iteself? This is something I like about the MB-D200 grip - you could keep shooting and replace the batteries independently (and without having to remove the grip).

Any clarification would be appreciated.

G

YES, you will have to remove the MB-D10 to get to the battery in the camera, if you do not like that idea, just keep the camera empty and carry the extra battery or the AA pack loaded and ready to go. Personally I dont mind it, I often like to take the grip off when I go light, and have it set to use the grip battery first.