Caught in the act....

[biggerry]

All these excellent macros, from other members (blacknstormy, colin, Andrew, just to name a few) got me in the mood to have another crack myself....

Any suggestions and comments are welcome, any hints on how to achieve a greater DOF with only the onboard flash are also welcome. I seem to always end up struggling to get the subject in the plane of focus..anyway enough said...

typically taken at iso 200-400 1/250s and f8

yes, i know...i've got a funny thing hanging off my head now stop laughing at me



getting these things (native bee if i am not mistaken?) in flight is a darn sight harder than it looks....



check out my reflection in his abdomen!



and the trusty 'ol dragonfly....

[phillipb]

Mate, I think you've done pretty well with these, I particularly like the first.

[Glen]

I also like the first, great angle

[biggerry]

Thanks glen/phillip, it took quite a few shots to get the composition right on the first one

[ATJ]

There are all good, especially for a first effort.

Things you can do to help:
* Use a tripod or a monopod to steady the camera. This will make it easier to get the focus point correct and hold it. A tripod will be better, but is far less maneuverable, especially with flying insects
* Invest in an external flash. These are much more powerful and so allow you to go with a smaller aperture and increase DOF. Using a softbox on the flash will soften the light.
* Note that more DOF isn't always desirable. If you can line up the subject appropriately, narrow DOF results in better separation from the background
* Watch your backgrounds, where possible, so you don't get distractions
* The eyes are the most important thing to have in focus.

By the way, the last subject is a damselfly, and one of the few species that rests with its wings horizontal.

[colin_12]

Like Andrew said a larger apature will give you better separation from the background.
I have only recently bought an external flash so all of my previous shots were with the on board flash.
I typically use a 105 macro lens at f 16 - f45 depending upon the subject and the distance.
Have your camera set up to use TTL in the flash settings and it will do a lot of the work for you.
This can lead to distracting backgrounds so beware of what is behind your subject.
Keep up the nice work.
Regards Colin

[biggerry]

especially for a first effort

well not quite the first go but...

External flash is something that I do not have but have considered investing into, I assume there are ones you can use attached to the camera and others you can use remotely generate a light source from another angle - do you use a fash from another angle at all?

The eyes are the most important thing to have in focus

Interestingly on that point with bee's and flys even with their eyes in focus they do not often look that sharp or in focus, they seem to be a satin like texture.

the last subject is a damselfly,

well how about that! you learn something new every day, its a whole world of medieval creatures

that rests with its wings horizontal.

I can count all the dragonfly (correctly named the damselfly) I have taken pictures of over the last few years on one hand and they have been all sat like this - i think nature has duped me either that or these ones are the most common....

bought an external flash

which one did you get? was it driven by your macro stuff or just general photography?

I typically use a 105 macro lens at f 16 - f45

wowsers, I don't think I have cracked the f10 - will try these smaller apertures...


Thanks for the advice, I apprceiate it and its useful

[biggerry]

especially for a first effort

well not quite the first go but...

External flash is something that I do not have but have considered investing into, I assume there are ones you can use attached to the camera and others you can use remotely generate a light source from another angle - do you use a fash from another angle at all?

The eyes are the most important thing to have in focus

Interestingly on that point with bee's and flys even with their eyes in focus they do not often look that sharp or in focus, they seem to be a satin like texture.

the last subject is a damselfly,

well how about that! you learn something new every day, its a whole world of medieval creatures

that rests with its wings horizontal.

I can count all the dragonfly (correctly named the damselfly) I have taken pictures of over the last few years on one hand and they have been all sat like this - i think nature has duped me either that or these ones are the most common....

bought an external flash

which one did you get? was it driven by your macro stuff or just general photography?

I typically use a 105 macro lens at f 16 - f45

wowsers, I don't think I have cracked the f10 - will try these smaller apertures...


Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it and its useful

[ATJ]

External flash is something that I do not have but have considered investing into, I assume there are ones you can use attached to the camera and others you can use remotely generate a light source from another angle - do you use a fash from another angle at all?

Actually, they are the same flashes. The only difference between on-camera and off-camera is running a cable between the hot-shoe and the flash.

The Nikon SB-800 or SB-900 would be the best for you. Either mounts in the hot-shoe on the camera. To use it off camera, you need a cable such as SC-28/SC29.

You may also consider building yourself a softbox. This will provide less harsh lighting.

Interestingly on that point with bee's and flys even with their eyes in focus they do not often look that sharp or in focus, they seem to be a satin like texture.

That's often a problem with insects because of their compound eye. Even when in sharp focus it can look soft. Part of it may also be the insect trying to disguise its eyes to fool predators and prey.

the last subject is a damselfly,

well how about that! you learn something new every day, its a whole world of medieval creatures

that rests with its wings horizontal.

I can count all the dragonfly (correctly named the damselfly) I have taken pictures of over the last few years on one hand and they have been all sat like this - i think nature has duped me either that or these ones are the most common....

Here is a pretty good reference for insects: Brisbane Insects. Despite being for Brisbane, it covers a lot of insects found in NSW. Here's their page on Dragonflies and damselflies

[chrisk]

I typically use a 105 macro lens at f 16 - f45.

f45 ?!?! am i missing something here ?

To use it off camera, you need a cable such as SC-28/SC29.

the OP has the d80 which has the built-in commander so no cables required.

Part of it may also be the insect trying to disguise its eyes to fool predators and prey.

really ? wow, i never knew that. fascinating !

native bee if i am not mistaken?

its a hoverfly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoverfly
#1 is a great shot btw.

[ATJ]

f45 ?!?! am i missing something here ?

I can get to f/54 with my 60mm f/2.8. Basically, at physically f/32 with focused to 1:1 it is effectively f/54.

To use it off camera, you need a cable such as SC-28/SC29.

the OP has the d80 which has the built-in commander so no cables required.

I still reckon a cable will be more reliable, especially outside.

[chrisk]

more reliable definately, but also more of a pain in the ass.
i've never used cables on either the d80 or d300 and have never had any issues. cos the strobes are in such close proximity to the cam in macro, there is usually never a problem.

[ATJ]

more reliable definately, but also more of a pain in the ass.
i've never used cables on either the d80 or d300 and have never had any issues. cos the strobes are in such close proximity to the cam in macro, there is usually never a problem.

Horses for courses. I find commander mode a much bigger pain in the arse. I prefer to use on-camera flash which works great the majority of the time with my softboxes. When I find the need to switch to off camera, inserting the cable between the flash and the camera is quick and easy. It is purely mechanical and I don't have to change any settings. As the strobes are in close proximity to the camera, the cable works well.

To use commander mode instead would mean at least adjusting settings on the flash and also on the camera (unless I left it in commander mode, but then I'd have to change that later if I want to use the built-in flash). I'd need my glasses to adjust the settings.

[biggerry]

That's often a problem with insects because of their compound eye. Even when in sharp focus it can look soft. Part of it may also be the insect trying to disguise its eyes to fool predators and prey.

best to aim for between the eyes I guess then...

its a hoverfly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoverfly
#1 is a great shot btw.

thanks...it seems less impressive now that i know its a fly....

SB-800 or SB-900 would be the best for you

ta, I had a look thru your site and at your softbox project seems pretty neat - there are some helpful things there. I have seen a blow-up style one as well - this however, is somthing I will negotiate if and when I get a ext flash. one downside to those cables is the cost of them...seem very pricey for a cable, but like alot of electronics, the best way to flog the customer is to charge fro the accessories...

Thanks again for the tips....I appreciate the time taken.

[ATJ]

one downside to those cables is the cost of them...seem very pricey for a cable

If you get an SB-800 or SB-900 you can use it on camera or try the commander feature for off-camera. You may be happy with it and then you don't need to buy the cable. In my case, I already have the cable (bought 15 or so years ago, before CLS) and prefer it.