E-6 and C-41

[ATJ]

I thought I'd start a new thread rather than take Brentsky's thread way off topic.

Actually, there's a couple of E6 kits that let you do the whole lot in normal light.

Surely not the whole lot or you'd be exposing the film to light which wouldn't be very good, would it?

I seem to recall that we're talking 5 steps for C41, and 7 steps for E6.

One of the benefits to living in a house rather than an apartment (hey Trevor) is I was able to find all my old documentation.

C-41
KODAK FLEXICOLOR Processing Kit for Process C-41
1. Developer, 3.5 minutes, 37.8ºC +/- 0.15, Agitage for 30 seconds then 2 seconds out of every 15, total darkness
2. Bleach, 6.5 minutes, 24 to 40.5ºC, Agitate for 30 seconds then 5 seconds out of every 30. total darkness
==== remaining steps can be done in normal room light ====
3. Wash, 3.25 minutes, 24 to 40.5ºC (Running water)
4. Fixer, 6.5 minutes, 24 to 40.5ºC, Agitate for 30 seconds then 5 seconds out of every 30.
5. Wash, 3.25 minutes, 24 to 40.5ºC (Running water)
6. Stabilizer, 1.5 minutes, 24 to 40.5ºC, Agitate for 30 seconds
7. Dry, 10 to 20 minutes, 24 to 43.5ºC

E-6
KODAK EKTACHROME Processing Kit for Process E-6
1. First Developer, 6.25 minutes, 38ºC +/- 0.3, Manual agitation, total darkness
2. First Wash, 2 minutes, 33 to 39ºC, total darkness
3. Reversal Bath, 2 minutes, 33 to 39ºC, total darkness
==== remaining steps can be done in normal room light ====
4. Color Developer, 6 minutes, 38ºC +/- 0.6
5. Conditioner, 2 minutes, 33 to 39ºC
6. Bleach, 6 minutes, 33 to 39ºC
7. Fixer, 4 minutes, 33 to 39ºC
8. Final Wash, 4 minutes, 33 to 39ºC
9. Stabilizer, 0.5 minutes, 33 to 39ºC
10. Dry, Ambient temperature

[gstark]

I thought I'd start a new thread rather than take Brentsky's thread way off topic.

Actually, there's a couple of E6 kits that let you do the whole lot in normal light.

Surely not the whole lot or you'd be exposing the film to light which wouldn't be very good, would it?

I'm presuming the use of a developing tank, and I was thinking in terms of the operations, as distinct from looking at this from the film's perspective. My apologies for the foncusion.

So yes, the film does need to be kept in total darkness for much of the process, all of which may be done in daylight with the use of a developing tank and a change bag.

I seem to recall that we're talking 5 steps for C41, and 7 steps for E6.

One of the benefits to living in a house rather than an apartment (hey Trevor) is I was able to find all my old documentation.

Ok, thanks for that.

I never count the drying as a "step" per se.

IIRC, for E6, there are kits other than Kojak, and some of them use different chemicals and as such have changed the processes a little, with some steps being, I think, combined, thus leading to a reduction in the number of steps (and time) consumed.

Of course, I have absolutely no evidence to support what I'm saying here, and I am relying totally on my post-Christmas memory. You are thusly welcome to be the judge of the value of my words.

[the foto fanatic]

One of the benefits to living in a house rather than an apartment (hey Trevor) is I was able to find all my old documentation.

[gstark]

I seem to recall that we're talking 5 steps for C41, and 7 steps for E6.

One of the benefits to living in a house rather than an apartment (hey Trevor) is I was able to find all my old documentation.

Ok, thanks for that.

I never count the drying as a "step" per se.

IIRC, for E6, there are kits other than Kojak, and some of them use different chemicals and as such have changed the processes a little, with some steps being, I think, combined, thus leading to a reduction in the number of steps (and time) consumed.

Yep ... there's a Tetenal 3 bath kit. The reversal and color developer are combined into one bath, and the bleach and fixer get combined into a blix.

[ATJ]

I'm presuming the use of a developing tank, and I was thinking in terms of the operations, as distinct from looking at this from the film's perspective. My apologies for the foncusion.

So yes, the film does need to be kept in total darkness for much of the process, all of which may be done in daylight with the use of a developing tank and a change bag.

I used to do mine (both E-6 and C-41, but not at the same time ) in a film developing tank, but I would open the tank as soon as I got to the steps that could be done in room light. It was much easier to empty the tank when it was open so I would leave less in the tank. This worked better for reusing the chemicals. It was also easier to agitate with the tank open.

[ATJ]

Yep ... there's a Tetenal 3 bath kit. The reversal and color developer are combined into one bath, and the bleach and fixer get combined into a blix.

I always preferred to use the "proper" process and was worried that the "shortcuts" might reduce the life of the resulting images.