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Am I correct...My new camera has an exposure factor of 20x, which means, for example, a film ISO of 400 has an effective EI of 20. This equates to about 4 1/3 stop reduction in light hitting the film plane.
Now, I am planning a still life shoot at the camera's sync speed of 1/60th at an aperture of 5.6. I expect to use Tri-X, which, for the sake of my maths, has an ISO of 400. The only variable, therefore, will by light output. Following discussion had last week betwix Matt, Gary and myself, I will be using the D200 to make test shots. If I want to make the exposure consistent between the two cameras, am I correct that the shutter speed of the D200 will need to be set at about 1/1300th or so (or whatever is closest settable speed)? One of my alternatives is to pick up sheet Polaroid film at about $10 per shot! I would rather avoid that. Regards, Patrick
Two or three lights, any lens on a light-tight box are sufficient for the realisation of the most convincing image. Man Ray 1935. Our mug is smug
Re: Am I correct...yes....no....maybe..
alright, i have no fing idea but thought i would just burn a few electrons. gerry's photography journey
No amount of processing will fix bad composition - trust me i have tried.
Re: Am I correct...I am getting around 1/960 forgetting the 1/3 stop.
Do you mean ambient light?
Yeah same here.
Re: Am I correct...
No, I mean strobe. My workings are as follows: Shutter speed on F is 1/60th. Difference is 4 1/3 stops. 1/60th - 1/125 - 1/250 - 1/500 - 1/1,000 = 1/1,300 (or so) Regards, Patrick
Two or three lights, any lens on a light-tight box are sufficient for the realisation of the most convincing image. Man Ray 1935. Our mug is smug
Re: Am I correct...I'm confused about what you mean by an exposure factor of 20X....but when it comes to strobes then the shutter speed, as long as it is in synch range, is not a factor.
If you set both cameras to ISO 400...the Nikon F to 1/60 at f5.6 and your digital camera to the same setting then they should both give the same result??? Or am I missing your point? Regards
Matt. K
Re: Am I correct...Can you elaborate more about the definition of the exposure factor? I'm reading it more as the dynamic range.
I do find a slight difference between film and digital, but it's really negligible (i.e., probably not worth thinking about since it's highly unlikely to result in a hugely overexposed image). Hassy, Leica, Nikon, iPhone
Come follow the rabbit hole...
Re: Am I correct...Matt, what I am saying is, based on what I have read, is that the F with the 4x5 back, will let in about 4 1/3 stops less light, for a given ISO, shutter speed and aperture as the F with the 35 mm film back. Therefore, the F with 4x5 back, loaded with ISO 400 film, at 5.6 and 1/60th, is the same as the D200 at ISO 400 at 5.6 at something like 1/1,300th. In other words, the ISO 400 film exposes liken ISO 20 film.
My question was about whether my calculation of the 1/1,300 shutter speed was correct. Think of it as a 4 1/3 ND filter. Regards, Patrick
Two or three lights, any lens on a light-tight box are sufficient for the realisation of the most convincing image. Man Ray 1935. Our mug is smug
Re: Am I correct...OH..I missed the 4 x 5 back bit. Got it now. I think you are on the right track.
Regards
Matt. K
Re: Am I correct...Patrick, the math is looking sound. Although you will need to figure out the strobe power using the D200 and then translate back. I doubt you could use the 1/1300 to calibrate the strobe.
Re: Am I correct...If you're shooting with a strobe, the shutter speed of the camera is irrelevant for the exposure (other than for the effect of the ambient light). For example, if you took a photograph in a dark room with a strobe, you'd end up with the same exposure with the camera at 1/60s as you would at 30s.
Re: Am I correct...
Good point: this will be in a dark room with only strobe light for illumination. I guess I need to adjust the ISO and aperture of the D200 to equalise. So, ISO 20 equivalent at 5.6 will be like ISO 200 at f/16 or thereabouts or ISO 100 at f/11. Regards, Patrick
Two or three lights, any lens on a light-tight box are sufficient for the realisation of the most convincing image. Man Ray 1935. Our mug is smug
Re: Am I correct...
ISO f/stop 20 f/5.6 40 f/8 80 f/11 160 f/16
Re: Am I correct...Would it make more sense to adjust the ISO on the D200 by 4 1/3 stops instead of the shutter speed? that way you can use the same combination of shutter speed and aperture on both cameras.
__________
Phillip **Nikon D7000**
Re: Am I correct...
Perhaps, except the D200 ISOonly ges down to 100, compared to the effective ISO of Tri-X of 16. Regards, Patrick
Two or three lights, any lens on a light-tight box are sufficient for the realisation of the most convincing image. Man Ray 1935. Our mug is smug
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