Sunrise/Sunset tips?Moderators: Greg B, Nnnnsic, Geoff, Glen, gstark, Moderators
Forum rules
Please ensure that you have a meaningful location included in your profile. Please refer to the FAQ for details of what "meaningful" is. Please also check the portal page for more information on this.
Previous topic • Next topic
20 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Sunrise/Sunset tips?Hi All,
I'd like to try some sunrise/sunset photography around local area but don't have any experience with this type of photo. Blackheath sunset was my first try and it didn't go really well. Any suggestions? Tips? Tricks? Mikhail
Hasselblad 501CM, XPAN, Wista DX 4x5, Pentax 67, Nikon D70, FED-2
Get as high up as you can. try to avoid too much dark foreground. ND Graduated cokin can work wonders. Or take an exposure for the ground and then merge in CS (I don't know how to do that yet).
I heard that if you meter the area directily above the sun, you'll get good results. Underexpose 1 stop if you want it to look 1/2 hour later. I tried this and it didn't work but popular photography said it works so hey, I must be the dummy.
New page
http://www.potofgrass.com Portfolio... http://images.potofgrass.com Comments and money always welcome
Re: Sunrise/Sunset tips?
I don't see anything wrong with the exposure. Perhaps the horizon is a little too close to centerline. But, what is it that you think is wrong? Why do you say that it didn't go well? my gallery of so-so photos
http://www.pbase.com/kerrypierce/
Re: Sunrise/Sunset tips?Thanks everyone! I'll give it a go.
Aw, can't tell. I just feel it. Something doesn't work Mikhail
Hasselblad 501CM, XPAN, Wista DX 4x5, Pentax 67, Nikon D70, FED-2
A good pix ......... but have you tried cropping top anf bottom, more off the bottom to get a pano look.......
Just trying to help big pix Cheers ....bp....
Difference between a good street photographer and a great street photographer.... Removing objects that do not belong... happy for the comments, but .....Please DO NOT edit my image..... http://bigpix.smugmug.com Forever changing
Umm, that's, probably' what I don't like about this shot - too much of dark ground useless in this picture. BTW, how would you crop it if you don't mind? Mikhail
Hasselblad 501CM, XPAN, Wista DX 4x5, Pentax 67, Nikon D70, FED-2
I took the liberity.......... hope you like it..... big pix EDIT: I also used shadow and highlight to lighten the sky just a bit Cheers ....bp....
Difference between a good street photographer and a great street photographer.... Removing objects that do not belong... happy for the comments, but .....Please DO NOT edit my image..... http://bigpix.smugmug.com Forever changing
Big Pix, I think you need to be giving us a few lessons on sunset shots, this one is tremendous!
Max President, A.A.A.A.A (Australian Association Against Acronym Abuse)
Canon EOS R6, RF 24-105 F4, RF 70-200 F4, RF 35mm F1.8, RF 16mm F2.8 "And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free." (John 8:32)
G'day Mic,
Everyone's different, I would have with just made the horizon lower in the frame, or cropped top and bottom as big pix suggested for a pano look... I usually take multiple exposures and merge in PS if I'm trying to get any foreground detail... Depends if that's what you're after though... Nothing wrong with the image you linked though... I liked it... Just probably a little too much foreground maybe... Just a thought...
G'day Dooda, merging in PSCS is easy... Found this simple procedure on a site, and use it heaps, only takes a few seconds using two different exposures, or even the same pic with different EV settings when converting from NEF: 1) open both the low exposure and high exposure images, 2) make the low exposure image current 3) ^A (to select all) then ^C (to copy to buffer) 4) make high exposure image current 5) ^V to paste the low exposure image into the high exposure image 6) Go to layers, make sure the pasted low exposure layer is current then make a mask but clicking the icon that looks like a camera from the front (didn't know how else to explain it...) 7) Alt-click on the mask window (the white window in the pasted layer pallette) This should give you a white screen/image Then paste into the white screen, this should give you a black and white image 9) Then just click on the background layer to make it current and hey presto! Merged exposures... 10) Then you can make the mask layer current and hide the background and clean up erasing the bits of the mask you don't want... Try it, it's really easy... I do it the other way around with the low and high exposures for blending multiple exposures of waterfalls... Cheers, Mudder Aka Andrew
Ozimax......it is Hlop pix ....... just trying to help with some cropping.....but I prefer sunrises........
big pix Cheers ....bp....
Difference between a good street photographer and a great street photographer.... Removing objects that do not belong... happy for the comments, but .....Please DO NOT edit my image..... http://bigpix.smugmug.com Forever changing
BP, sorry there er ah um.... yeah I too like sunrises and one of these days I'm going to get out of bed early enough to see one! Max
President, A.A.A.A.A (Australian Association Against Acronym Abuse)
Canon EOS R6, RF 24-105 F4, RF 70-200 F4, RF 35mm F1.8, RF 16mm F2.8 "And ye shall know the truth, and the truth shall make you free." (John 8:32)
Max ........ I have heard that there is more Sun in Coffs than the rest of Australia........
bp Cheers ....bp....
Difference between a good street photographer and a great street photographer.... Removing objects that do not belong... happy for the comments, but .....Please DO NOT edit my image..... http://bigpix.smugmug.com Forever changing
hlop, I think the main problem with your shot is that there is too much featureless black. Virtually the whole mountain part is black with no detail, so it doesn't add much to the final image.
While not claiming any expertise, I love a sunrise, and I took this one just in the backyard this morning. I didn't do anything special, just made sure that the sky was the main thing in the frame, bit of PP (I used the KPT equalizer). Every sunrise is a good one, it means you didn't die during the night. cheers Greg - - - - D200 etc
Talent hits a target no one else can hit; Genius hits a target no one else can see. - Arthur Schopenhauer
great motto!... i like the shot also... http://www.markcrossphotography.com - A camera, glass, and some light.
Nice Shot GREG. I think the main problem with BlackHeath is that it is just a little flat. Notice in Greg's Pic that it starts right in front of us and then takes us back into the pic. I think that the depth of a picture is one of the major things that separate great pics from average ones, which is why pros and such always teach about foreground interest. You want something closeby to grab the eye, then lead them into the pic like some kind of epic journey with some totally beautiful woman with blonde hair and...well you get the picture (PI).
You seems to be right. And, yeah, great shot! Mikhail
Hasselblad 501CM, XPAN, Wista DX 4x5, Pentax 67, Nikon D70, FED-2
This is one thing I did learn recently. I have always liked my photos. After doing 7 days in remote Tasmanian Southwest, I had some spectacular shots. Then I went through the Peter Dombrovskis book on the southwest and saw the difference a foreground subject makes. Didn't make mine look ordinary but you can certainly tell the difference. Those expensive medium format cameras really do a great job too.... And for sunrise and sunset shots, I usually go -.3, -.7 and -1 and compare the diff and keep what I like. I got a digital camera so I can afford to do this, couldn't with film! Sometimes I'm lazy and lock the exposure just "off" centre so the sun isn't in it to make it darker - estimating the amount of light where I lock the exposure compared to with the sun or hottest spot. Can work well but so long as the sun isn't shining straight in, the -.3 and -.7 work best - unless the sun is on the water and you are on a beach or something - then matbe -1 or -1.3 even... Play and see. As for the shot, IMO only, I would have preferred to be on the hill in the photo and I think there's too much black in the foreground, but you can crop a nice landscape shot out of it (think someone said that). The more you take, the better you get because you will learn what you like and what works. I really like the right-click - properties to get a quick peek at what I did with the photo. Must learn to use PS and the Nikon software I got though. All my own opinions of course and I'm no expert. Share what you know, learn what you don't.
Wilderness Photography of Tasmania http://www.tasmaniart.com.au
Sunrise / Sunset tips: 1. Study the BOM website for weather patterns and sunset and sunrise times. Why I say weather patterns, well it all depends on how you want your shot to look. Do you want clear blue sky shot or the slightly cloudy pink/orange sky look. 2. Study your subject well, maybe do a few preliminary stake outs of the item that you want to shoot. Determine whether it will look good shooting into the sun (silhouetted), with the sun slightly offset top the left or right of the frame or even with the sun behind you so that the subject is lit. Take a look at Sunset & Seahorse by Dee. Shot with the sun behind him so that the sandstone? subject has a nice warmth to it. 3. Always get to your subject early so that you can prepare. If you're going for sunrise shots, that means an early night before. Also make sure you're all kitted up (batteries charged) and ready to go first thing. 4. Take multiple bracketted exposures and shoot RAW. Helps for combining in Photoshop or that other program that allows for dynamic tones. 5. If you have a foreground subject fairly close to you look at using fill light if the sun is behind the subject. Hope some of these tips have helped. I've got up a few times to take sunrises at destinations that are about 1hr-1.30hrs away from my house. It takes a bit of dedication to get up that early. Darryl (aka Kipper)
Nikon D200
Previous topic • Next topic
20 posts
• Page 1 of 1
|