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Thinking of buying a fixed focal length fast lens - helpLately I've been thinking of owning a nice fast lens in a focal length somewhere between 28-50mm.
What I invision myself doing with such a lens is taking indoor pics in lower light and getting sharper, better pics outside when I'm out 'looking' for a pic to take. . like a photo walk or such. Instead of letting the zoom of my kits lens do all the work, I thought it would be nice to use my feet and get more into it with the reward being a sharper pic, etc. It seems like the best deal for 'speed' would be a 50mm 1.4, but I'm worried that might not be wide enough. A 28mm is only affordable to me as a 2.8, so then I worry that's too slow I've walked around with my kit lens at both 28 and 50mm and tried framing various shots without letting myself touch the zoom ring, and both focal lengths seem really useful. . . I'm sure someone has sat on this same fence before and can give me some more pro/cons. -Rich
The 50mm won't be really useful around the house as there simply isn't enough room to walk around. Atleast that's what I found while taking pics of people opening presents Christmas morn. Apparently SIgma as a 35 2.0 (I think?) coming out which might be really useful.
Get a 35/f1.4 or a 28/f.2 AIS/ MF, for these capture shots, you don't need the AF-S, play with manual and you get what you want and it's cheap same as avalable.
Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
I don't mind the turning the ring part, but my eyes aren't the best and the D70 viewfinder is a little smallish. I'm afraid if I didn't have the AF, a LOT of my shots would be out of focus.
Is the older nikkor AF 35mm F2 considered to be a decent lens?
How can you call the "nikkor AF 35mm F2", it's still current Nikon stock and is selling around the world. It's just OK for what you're doing everyday, it's a true 50mm on dslr and it's not great as the old AIS 35/1.4 or 24/2 in lowlight/ WA. The AF-D 28/1.4 is superb but its premium is steep. Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
Can you point me to the link of the 35mm AF or any reference to the 35mm AF only? Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
Sorry birdie, I have GREAT respect for your nikon lens knowledge, but you're wrong on this one.
They did make a non-D one, that auction is one, along with several other ones I've found. There is a 'D' after the 1:2 on the newer lenses to denote the lens has the distance chips and is the newer D lens. Here is another auction URL: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 7511002878 and here is a URL describing the lense differences: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/co ... 35mmf2.htm Note the following paragraph: "However, up to April, 1989, strangely, Nikon has not provide a 35mm prime AF Nikkor lens and Nikon AF users had to use manual focus Nikkor lenses. The AF version introduced has skipped both the f/2.8 or a faster f/2.0 lens speed and midrange lens speed of f/2.0 was chosen instead. The first version of the AF lens has a similar 6 elements in 5 group design to the Ai-S Nikkor which was seen as an exact replica of the last version of the 35mm f/2.0 Ai-S lens with an re-packaged AF outfit. The current AF lens remains the same except it has a distance chips incorporated within to make it as AF-D Nikkor 35mm f/2.0 lens."
NetMagi
Sorry! you're right!, I withdraw my posts, I haven't seen the F2 only and I have the F:2D. Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
Hi Rich, I think Birddy is right on sizes. I would rate your choices as 50 1.4 AF or one stop slower but much wider 35 f2 AF, or if you go with manual focus, the pick as Birddy says is the 35 1.4.
I am probably going to have to visit an optometerist in the next few years, quicker if I keep looking at the dinky d70 viewfinder, but have a number of manual lenses with the 45 2.8 my favourite. You may not be aware but there is a focussing dot in the bottom left of the viewfinder which lights up upon correct focus. Why dont you use you kit lens on manual focus for half an hour at 35mm? You will both work out if you like manual, I see it as no hardship usually though action sports would be different, and also see if you like 35mm. Then try 28mm, etc if these dont work for you. Also dont rule out high ISO, here is a shot I took recently at 1600 ISO as a test. As you can see, the dog and sofa came out ok, but the out of focus carpet seems very grainy. Still it is an image you could tell if the dog was a chihuahua or a german shepherd, and see the scratches it puts on the sofa
Well, reading that paragraph, the optics are supposedly the same. How do you like your F:2D sharpness, color, and distortion wise? -Rich
Glen
Way OT I know, but had to comment. Good to see I'm not the only person who lets their pets ruin their furniture. My two $3,500 Natuzzi leather lounges are covered with about 10 strategically placed cat scratches from my two bosses jumping up and not landing quite right Net Magi I have, and love, the 50/1.4 I was at a friend's wedding at the weekend and found it awesome for taking shots at the wedding both with and without flash. I also had a 28/1.4 on loan and found it equally great, but only for inside the church (and of course the lens is rare and lists at almost 7x the price of the 50/1.4). Of the two the 50 was more versatile. I've also taken outdoor shots with the 50 and not found its range all that limiting. If you went for something lower than a 50 to get wider (a 35mm for example) I think you'd find that your close shots were too wide also. Bottom line is I think as a walk around prime the 50/1.4 is good in terms of both utility and value. Of course YMMV Peter
Disclaimer: I know nothing about anything. *** smugmug galleries: http://www.stubbsy.smugmug.com ***
Stubbsy, you are dead right. Only difference is I have three leather lounges wrecked, not two. Two kilogram Bella certainly rules our house
Rich, the 50 1.4 is rated very highly, the 35 not as much, more a medium quality lens from the reviews.
my heart is still beating through my chest but I just won this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 7509765438 Does anyone else get that worked up watching auctions close? I put my bid in with about 50 seconds to go, and watching those 50 seconds tick down just waiting for someone to 'snake me' had me on the edge of my seat!!! The lens is listed as Made in Japan. From what I've read this is preferred over the Chineese-made lenses, but I doubt it matters. Any opinions on the Chineese vs Japaneese birddog? -Rich
Nice catch Rich. Many times I have been beaten to the post in the last few seconds and it really heightens the stress levels. On the other hand when selling you get the opposite effect. Had a lens up for sale on eBay and in the last minute it was only at $55 Aus and then in the last seconds it shot up to $172 Aus - woohoo
Chris
-------------------------------- I started my life with nothing and I’ve still got most of it left
Nick,
Who cares whether or not they know? Please enlighten those of us who do not! g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
Tim, you're confusing this with the Japanese art of paper folding. Please see the thread on the Epson R1800 for details on how to lose more of your folding paper to a Japanese. g.
Gary Stark Nikon, Canon, Bronica .... stuff The people who want English to be the official language of the United States are uncomfortable with their leaders being fluent in it - US Pres. Bartlet
Ouch, thanks Gary! Now I want one too but will have to wait till after June 30 as well. Still curious about 'sniping'...
Sniping is basically waiting until the last seconds before an auction ends and placing a bid.
First you'll have to figure out how much your computer time lags behind ebay's server, so you can accurately gauge auction end down to the second. There are books on ebay tips and tricks that outlines all these tricks; including recommendations on software that snipe for you so you don't even have to be awake or sitting at your computer to monitor and win an auction.
I can never hold out longer than just under a minute. .
I usually start entering my bid at between 45 and 55 seconds to the end. Ebay often kicks out your session for no particular reason and makes you log back in and then confirm before the bid is entered. If that happens, it can often take 30-40 seconds just to GET your bid in.
New? US$800- $900.00/ Used mint condition: US$400- $500.00 I scored the one mint for AU$185.00 Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
Gee birddog - not only are your sales bargains, so are your purchases
Peter
Disclaimer: I know nothing about anything. *** smugmug galleries: http://www.stubbsy.smugmug.com ***
Incredible Birddog. If you ever see one going for $300 or less ,please throw me a line. My eyesight isn't the best either, but I think with f1.4 at 35mm I could still pick off a few good portraits. I have been watching the 50mm f1.8's go on eBay for $180-280 sh and I was beginning to lose hope that deals like that ever came along. I guess you have to be in the game huh?
There are also a few sites that auto-snipe for you. IE you enter details and during the last 5 secs or so they place the appropriate bid. - Nick
Gallery
The brand new Nikkor 50/1.8D is just AU$190.00 and it's available, why would you have to go for eBay with $180.00- $280.00 price tag? Birddog114
VNAF, My Beloved Country and Airspace
OT but I bought a car at auction in December, my last bid was the highest I was going to go, the hammer seemed to take forever to drop and my nerves were a wreck! Short answer - YES! Now I'm off to take a look at Birddogs specials on lenses.... Share what you know, learn what you don't.
Wilderness Photography of Tasmania http://www.tasmaniart.com.au
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